Cellar Circle exclusives

The 2023 vintage of Flor de Pingus is a blend of 95% Tinto Fino and 5% Garnacha. With just 20% new oak which melts into the ripe dark berry fruit, there are subtle notes of cocoa dusted cherries and charcoal embers. There is real intensity to the wine with pixelated, supple tannin that frames the fruit with real finesse. The finish is long, fresh and extremely harmonious.

Smooth, silky, bright and incisive. There is a lot to like here. The Ballot-Millot vines sit at the top of the parcel right next to Lafon’s. This location gives a dialled-up minerality, setting it apart from the richer examples produced further down the slope. As classical as they come in Meursault.

Criots is a tiny Grand Cru, just one and a half hectares, making Fontaine-Gagnard one of the largest owners, with one third of a hectare. The south-east-facing slope, with poor limestone soils, yields a wine with superb power and tension. But this is only achieved when the parcel is picked at just the right moment. Céline says she watches it like a hawk, catching it before the fruit ripens into the tropical spectrum.

The Lafarges always pick their Aligoté a couple of weeks after the main harvest, and rely on the small clutch of family members rather than the main harvest team, to bring the fruit in. The vines are approaching 90 years of age, and yield only tiny volumes of beautiful, characterful fruit, producing a wine with superb phenolic complexity. Aged half in cement, half in barrel the wine will be bottled at the end of March. The small golden-skinned berries of the ‘raisins dorés’ clone produce a wine with super energy with notes of fresh white grapefruit, lemon peel, and white flowers.

Stéphane’s parcel of 65-year-old vines lies right in the heart of the old Clos, the original part of the appellation. With such an amazing terroir, Stéphane comments that ‘70% of the job is done’! It shows delicate salinity and fragrant fruit depth. Understated but hugely impressive.

Produced in every vintage since the foundation of the domaine, this 50/50 blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay, produced from co-planted vines, is one of Burgundy’s bargains. There is charm and freshness to the wine that offers aromas of violets and fresh red cherry with just a tinge of liquorice root on the finish.

Where the Bonnes Mares is muscular and persuasive, this is fragrant and fine, with a compelling thread of crystalline red fruit reaching to an astonishing finish. Clos de Bèze is a slightly steeper and warmer site than Chambertin next door, and the potential heights of complexity and concentration it can produce are remarkable.

Nicole has three parcels within this Grand Cru, one in the northwest corner (where everyone wants to be) tucked up next to Musigny. The three add complexity and layers to the finished wine. This is so lively with some dried herbs, white pepper and coffee grounds that lead to distinctly red berry fruit on the palate. The tannin is fine-grained with an athletic feel that promises a long life ahead.

The domaine purchased this plot of Vosne Premier Cru in the 1990s, and since then has been making this superb cuvée. Creamy, aromatic red fruit notes announce a serious Suchots. Impressive spice and structure.

This is a Bonnes Mares of distinction: it is the only part of the vineyard to fall within Morey-Saint-Denis (the rest is in Chambolle-Musigny). It is muscular, yet tender, with a deep and concentrated core. There is an unbelievable length on display here, with a finish that fans out across the palate.

The Lafons declassify the fruit of young vines grown in the 4-hectare plot into the village Volnay, meaning the 1er Cru Santenots-du-Milieu cuvée is the exclusive product of old vines. It is a complex red, with aromatic density, sour cherry freshness and a long, mineral finish, and for close followers of the domaine, one of the greatest wines in the cellar, whose reputation is more closely linked with its whites.

Monthelie is a small village just north of Meursault, producing deliciously crunchy red wines. The Lafon example is one of its leading lights. Indeed, the red wines at Lafon have come on a great deal in recent years, and this is one of the most affordable entry points to the domaine. Juicy, crunchy, and elegant Côte de Beaune Pinot at its finest.