It’s not surprising that this Puligny premier cru is a winning wine from Olivier Leflaive. They are absolute masters of the style here. It has zippy energy, with well-composed fruit structure. Its compact core gives the wine a full-bodied impact, while its sophisticated length denotes its premier cru status.

Next to the wines of Puligny, this Meursault village feels more weighted and structured, with satisfying depth and tension. It’s ample, without being heavy. The vineyard of Vireuils sits tucked up at the top of the hill, on the border with neighbouring Auxey-Duresses. Its cool hilltop position helps the wine retain a terrific mineral drive, and 50-year-old vines produce concentration and savoury length.

This is 100% domaine-owned fruit from the tiny clos of just 1.7ha in the northern sector of Les Vergers on the Chassagne/St-Aubin border. There’s a sophisticated interplay between controlled and tantalising reduction and chiselled stone fruit weight. Crystalline and compelling with a long limestone-driven finish.

This Chassagne stands out in the line-up for its floral perfume and seriously good fruit concentration. There is the village’s deliciously nutty, savoury structure, and delineated precision on the finish.The parcel sits in the northern half of the commune, towards Puligny-Montrachet, and the wine shares some of its neighbour’s filigree precision.

Floral, precise, and energetic. This Montagny premier cru is a classic example of why the appellation is recognised as one of the top communes in the Côte Chalonnaise. This wine itself is a blend of various sites, and is vinified almost exclusively in oak, with just a fraction of it new. It has this wonderful tight fruit-based minerality and a textural structure, with plump lemon pulp at its core.

Folatières’ place in the firmament of truly great Burgundian terroirs has been assured for many years. Olivier Leflaive used to make two cuvées here (a domaine and négociant wine), but now just makes this magnificent domaine one. It is balanced and pure, with a dramatic dry extract matched by fresh acidity and a wonderful energy on the length. Only made in tiny quantities. Keep this in the cellar for a few years.

Saint-Romain is a village increasingly worth serious attention. The freshness afforded by the elevation here is welcome in Chardonnay, and the chalky soils produce wines with a delicious mouthfeel and good bite. The Saint-Romain from Olivier Leflaive comes from various plots, including Sous le Château and En Poillange. It's a refreshing and crunchy white, with limestone minerality and a racy lemon-scented edge.

You’d expect this wine to be one of the best in the stable: from home turf, made from a magnificent blend of parcels from across the commune (seven of them the domaine’s own). It is one of the most complete and compelling portraits of the village you’ll find, and it’s a wine to remind you that these Olivier Leflaive wines are not only benchmark examples of their appellations, but also some of the most exciting in their category. This is everything Puligny should be, and more: filigree, tight, nervous, and fabulously long.

Les Sétilles is an outstanding Bourgogne Blanc, and one of the most popular wines on our list. Much of the fruit comes from around Puligny-Montrachet, blended with some from further afield, like the Hautes-Côtes, which brings welcome freshness and tension. Two-thirds of the wine is raised in oak, with just a touch (10%) new. It is precise, full of character, with a mineral bite and a lovely seam of acidity. It is great value for money and consistently brilliant.

Les Sétilles is an outstanding Bourgogne Blanc, and one of the most popular wines on our list. Much of the fruit comes from around Puligny-Montrachet, blended with some from further afield, like the Hautes-Côtes, which brings welcome freshness and tension. Two-thirds of the wine is raised in oak, with just a touch (10%) new. It is precise, full of character, with a mineral bite and a lovely seam of acidity. It is great value for money and consistently brilliant.