Vintage Overview

The best wines of 2023 seem to embody both the freshness of a cool vintage and the fruit ripeness of a warmer one - its high levels both of sunshine hours and rainfall make it unlike many vintages in the recent past. The result is an exquisite synthesis of tension and charm.

The 2023 vintage will go down in history as one of the fastest harvests on record. The winter was a wet one and allowed soils to recharge. Warm and dry weather in May and June promoted growth in the vines and in the Mosel, for example, flowering began around 8 June - slightly later than in 2022, but still well ahead of the long-term average. June and July were also warm and dry, with created stress particularly for younger vines. However, by the end of July, the weather turned, and heavy rains fell, refreshing the vines and encouraging a quick and rather simultaneous ripening in the grapes.

In summary, the wines are supple and juicy, the acidity is present but never jagged, the stony minerality is prominent but always silky, and they have a very appealing flowing quality. It is a superb year for those who rose to the challenge of the vintage!

For the 2022 red wines, this is a vintage not to miss – it will go down as one of the best vintages of reds in recent years with the grapes thriving in the warm September sunshine.

2022 was a warm vintage. The year started with a warm spring, with no late frost damage and fast-paced vine development in the springtime months. Warm days in May accelerated growth even further, leading to thick canopies and rapid flowering. With ongoing warm and dry conditions, growers were waiting patiently for rain which duly came in September, refreshing the grapes. However, in some regions such as the Ahr Valley, sporadic and well-timed rain came in throughout July and August which meant for excellent quality from this region. For reds, the result is ripe, well-structured wines with real purity and freshness.

Hofgut Falkenstein

Saar

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Hofgut Falkenstein is a relatively youthful estate having been established by Erich and Maria Weber in 1981, in the Saar Valley, in close proximity to the famous Scharzhofberger vineyard. Despite the recent history of the estate, they are working on some of the most famous and historically important vineyards of the Saar. Erich, and his son Johannes have quickly attracted a great deal of press attention. Their approach is making wine in the traditional way, with sustainable farming practices (having converted to organics in 2021), and minimal intervention in the winery, using indigenous yeasts and old oak: a key part of their philosophy. The estate consists of 10 hectares, of which one hectare includes ungrafted vines.

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Weingut Peter Lauer

Saar

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This is one for Riesling purists. At Weingut Peter Lauer, in the small village of Ayl in the Saar Valley, the focus in on dry-tasting Rieslings with tension, purity, and salinity. Now run by Florian Lauer since 2005, the estate farms regeneratively, using many organic techniques. In the cellar, Florian talks of the wines ‘hibernating’ in cask over a period of long, slow fermentation. Each cask corresponds to a distinctive style and a special point of origin. The must from specific vineyards is always vinified in the same container as the previous year. The cask is thereby unique.

2023 Fass 16 Riesling Trocken, Peter Lauer, Saar Dry | White | Still | 11.5%

This is poised and crystalline. Succulent orchard fruit, with a flash of refreshing acidity running through the wine. This is racy, slatey and irresistible.

Ready: 2024 - 2033
2023 Fass 16 Riesling Trocken, Peter Lauer, Saar Dry | White | Still | 11.5%

This is poised and crystalline. Succulent orchard fruit, with a flash of refreshing acidity running through the wine. This is racy, slatey and irresistible.

Ready: 2024 - 2033

Weingut Maximin Grünhaus

Ruwer

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Maximin Grünhäus is a wonderfully traditional estate situated by the Ruwer river. It is known for its holdings of 3 contigious vineyards: Abtsberg, Herrenberg, and Bruderberg. Each plot has its own distinct microclimate, aspect and soil that lends itself to unique Riesling expressions. Work in the vineyards is finely tuned with nature, with organic fertilisers and wild herb cover crops preferred to pesticides or herbicides. Grapes are harvested by hand in several passes to capture perfect ripeness levels across the vintage. The cellar is minutes from the vineyards to ensure quick pressing after harvest, which retains aromatics. Depending on vintage conditions, grapes are destemmed or whole-bunch-pressed, before clarification through natural settling. Stefan ferments using indigenous yeasts, in small stainless-steel tanks and classic large oak casks, made by local coopers using wood from the estate’s own forests. Maximin von Schubert and his winemaker Stefan Kraml lead this highly regarded winery that continues to produce stand out, long lived, crystalline Rieslings.

2023 Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett, Weingut Maximin Grünhäuser, Mosel Medium Dry | White | Still | 7.5%

A textbook Kabinett, this opens with bright citrus fruit, fresh cut herbs and white flowers. So deft and finely balanced, it focuses in on the finish

Ready: 2024 - 2038

Weingut Fritz Haag

Mosel

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The vineyards here are no stranger to history: they date back to 1605. The Haag family are the current incumbents, with 17.5 prime hectares entirely devoted to Riesling in Brauneberg (“brown mountain”), the area known for its brown slate along the Mosel. They’ve vines in the two most famous plots here: Brauneberger Juffer and Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr (the area with the sundial, or “sonnenuhr”). The name of the vineyards, “juffer”, dates to the 1790s, a reference to the three “juffers” (“old maid” daughters) who took over from their father at the time. Wilhelm Haag helped put his family’s wines on the world fine wine map, and his son Oliver joined in 2005 to help. With precise winemaking starting with the very clones they select, the Haags have not hesitated to bring new ideas to very old winemaking traditions if it leads to the best, purest wines.

2023 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett, Fritz Haag, Mosel Medium Dry | White | Still | 8%

A really joyful wine, brimming with crushed herbs, citrus and ripe red apple fruit, and wet rocks. A lift of lemon blossom and white flowers, with a line of acidity that dances across the palate.

Ready: 2024 - 2038
2023 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese, Fritz Haag, Mosel Medium Sweet | White | Still | 7.5%

Ripe citrus and stone fruit, with a lovely spicey character. There is a really invigorating balance between the salty and sweet here. A delicate creamy feel on the palate there is a burst of salinity on the finish.

Ready: 2024 - 2038
2023 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese, Fritz Haag, Mosel Sweet | White | Still | 7.5%

Just a quiet nod to opulence in this wine. Bright, sweet stone fruits with a dash of spice overlays the very fine crystalline minerality at the core of the wine. The finish is supremely long and delicate.

Ready: 2024 - 2048
2023 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese, Fritz Haag, Mosel Sweet | White | Still | 7.5%

Just a quiet nod to opulence in this wine. Bright, sweet stone fruits with a dash of spice overlays the very fine crystalline minerality at the core of the wine. The finish is supremely long and delicate.

Ready: 2024 - 2048

Weingut Willi Schaefer

Mosel

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One of the most highly sought names of Germany’s Mosel Valley, Weingut Willi Schaefer is also one of the oldest: their history dates to 1121. Remaining steadfastly a family winery, Willi and his son Christoph work entirely by hand, growing exclusively Riesling grapes from vines over a hundred years old on the steep Devonian slate slopes of Graacher Dompropst and Graacher Himmelreich (“Kingdom of Heaven”), as well as Wehlener Sonnenuhr. These are some of the purest Rieslings we know and age extraordinarily well.

2023 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett, Weingut Willi Schaefer, Mosel Medium Dry | White | Still | 7.5%

The Himmelreich Kabinett this year is totally charming. A waft of fresh cut flowers, citrus aromas and wet rocks it is buzzing with energy. On the palate this is so delicate and nuanced with such harmony between acidity and sweetness.

Ready: 2024 - 2043
2023 Graacher Domprobst Kabinett, Weingut Willi Schaefer, Mosel Medium Dry | White | Still | 7.5%

Richer and a little more intense than the Himmelreich, the Domprobst has more spiced notes of ginger and lemongrass accenting the citrus and orchard fruit. A wonderful core of energy to the wine, with a very refreshing saline finish.

Ready: 2024 - 2043

Dönnhoff

Nahe

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Dönnhoff are based in the Nahe region of Germany, noted for its diverse soils, which are beautifully expressed in Dönnhoff’s single vineyard wines. The family winery has existed since the mid-18th century, but has reached its highest level under Helmut Dönnhoff, at the helm since 1971. The fourth generation now holds the reins: Cornelius Dönnhoff. He began his training in 1999 and, after a series of positions abroad, in 2007 returned to assume responsibility for the estate. Dönnhoff’s wines are a true standard bearer for the Nahe and its diverse terroir – they are wonderfully elegant, timeless, and refreshing.

2023 Kreuznacher Kahlenberg Riesling Dry, Dönnhoff, Nahe Dry | White | Still | 11.5%

The quartzite and red stones give more roundness and texture. The 2023 is a ripe and succulent style of Riesling with a yellow fruit emphasis. The palate displays a wonderful energy with mineral inflections and a refreshing salinity on the finish.

Ready: 2024 - 2038
2023 Dellchen Riesling Grosses Gewächs, Dönnhoff, Nahe Dry | White | Still | 12.5%

The Dellchen are the hollows that sit between cliffs that lift up from the Nahe, and this south-facing vineyard creates a wine that has astonishing intensity and complexity, with notes of ginger and more exotic spices. It benefits from an incredibly long hang time on the vines, and the resulting wine is brilliant.

Ready: 2024 - 2048
2023 Riesling QbA, Dönnhoff, Nahe Dry | White | Still | 12%

Characteristically bright and pure, this open with notes of lemongrass, white peach and white grapefruit. Charming and refreshing on the palate this is a finely sculpted Riesling with a very fine balance.

Ready: 2024 - 2030
2023 Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett, Dönnhoff, Nahe Medium Dry | White | Still | 9%

Southeast facing, the morning sun on this vineyard dries out any moisture, resulting in perfectly healthy grapes, while the warm slate soils creates a Kabinett that’s full of ripe fruit and tons of energy: it’s one of the most up-front, delicious wines we know.

Ready: 2024 - 2035

Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich

Nahe

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Tim Fröhlich, who took over his family winery at the age of 21 back in 1995, has made a name for himself crafting wines of tension, precision and crystalline energy from his 21 hectares of vines around Bockenau in the Nahe. A terroir fanatic, Tim captures the varied soils of his vineyards in a very transparent and precise way. Even in warm vintages the wines keep incredible focus and freshness.

2023 Nahe Riesling Trocken, Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich Dry | White | Still | 11.5%

This is a mix of Tim Fröhlich’s various terroirs to create a wonderfully bright, succulent Riesling. Chiselled and saline in form, this offers a great deal of enjoyment at first sip.

Ready: 2024 - 2030
2023 Vulkangestein Riesling Trocken, Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich Dry | White | Still | 12.5%

From 35-year-old vines in Felsenberg and Stromberg destined in future for GGs, this is a Grand Cru wine in all but name. This really flows across the palate with crystalline citrus flavours a lift of red currant berry and a little spice and salinity on the persistent and moreish finish.

Ready: 2024 - 2035
2023 Bockenauer Schiefergestein Riesling Trocken, Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich Dry | White | Still | 12.5%

From 30-to-40-year-old vines in Felseneck. Clean, precise and with a little white grapefruit pith, this is a little more angular than its volcanic brother, with cool, minty citrus-driven flavours and a dash of spice on the long slaty finish.

Ready: 2024 - 2035

Schloss Johannisberg

Rheingau

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Schloss Johannisberg, is one of the most celebrated wineries in Germany, producing exquisite wines with a rich history. Having been replanted to exclusively Riesling in the early 18th Century, Schloss Johannisberg reputation is for producing exceptional Riesling wines that showcase the unique terroir of the Schloss Johannisberg hill in the Rheingau, and under the guidance of Stefan Doktor this historical estate is establishing itself at the very top of the world of wine, vintage after vintage.

2023 Bronzelack Trocken, Schloss Johannisberg, Rheingau Dry | White | Still

The aromatics on this wonderful dry Riesling are so precisely delineated. Fresh cut honeysuckle, white flowers and wild herbs mix with peach skin, tangerine peel, and pink grapefruit. Crystalline and delicate yet with a quiet intensity that follows through with a spark of salinity on the finish.

Ready: 2024 - 2038
2023 Rotlack Riesling Kabinett Trocken, Schloss Johannisberg, Rheingau Dry | White | Still

Pure and focused from the outset, this is a finely tuned Kabinett with invigorating balance between sweetness and freshness. Fresh redcurrants, red apple, and apricot fruit make this a succulent and juicy style with a wave of slaty minerality on the finish.

Ready: 2024 - 2035

Weingut Peter-Jakob Kühn

Rheingau

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Since more than 230 years, Weingut Peter-Jacob Kühn has been tending the vineyards around the family house in Oestrich in the Rheingau. It is a story of winemaking expertise that passes through now 11 generations of the family under the direction of Peter-Bernhard and his wife Viktoria. It is one of the few estates in Germany to be farmed biodynamically. The estate marches to their own drum beat and are now releasing their 2022 dry whites as well as their extraordinary 2019 Sekt. The wines here are taut and minerally in their youth and develop aromatic herbal characters with time in the bottle. They achieve a striking balance of ripeness, complexity, and elegance.

2022 Jacobus Riesling Trocken, Peter Jakob Kühn, Rheingau Dry | White | Still | 11.5%

A real charmer, this has a focus on ripe orchard fruit on the palate. A little spiced pear, white grapefruit dance around the steak of salinity running through the wine.

Ready: 2024 - 2030
2022 Hendelberg Riesling Trocken, Weingut Peter-Jakob Kühn Medium Dry | White | Still | 11.5%

An elevated site with slate soils giving a compact wine full of citrus zest, bright orchard fruit with accents of verbena. A real purity here on the finish.

Ready: 2024 - 2038
2019 Blanc de Blancs Brut, Weingut Peter-Jakob Kühn Medium Dry | White | Still | 12.5%

Made principally from Pinot Blanc, with a little Riesling and Pinot Auxerrois thrown in, disgorged after three years on the lees with zero dosage. It is rounded and ripe, with a delicate fine mousse and an appealing fresh juicy finish.

 

Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier

Rheinhessen

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Oliver Spanier set up Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier in 1991, when he was only 19 years old. The estate has been certified organic since 1993, and biodynamically since 2005. The estate is based in the south of Rheinhessen, in the village of Hohen-Sulzen, with vineyards in the surrounding communes. Here the soils are almost exclusively limestone, which gives the wines structure, focus, and wonderful citrus lifts. These soils are rarely found elsewhere in Germany. In 2016 Oliver married Carolin Gillot of Kühling-Gillot, uniting two of Rheinhessen’s greatest estates. And the renown of these two estates, run separately but under the same roof, is only growing. Indeed, this is currently one of Germany’s most exciting addresses.

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Weingut Kühling-Gillot

Rheinhessen

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Kühling-Gillot’s prime holdings are on the Roter Hang (red slope), an iron-rich strip between Nierstein and Nackenheim along the Rhine. Caroline who has managed her family estate since 2006, works with her husband Oliver Spanier (of Battenfeld-Spanier) who she married in 2016 bringing together two of the most prestigious estates in the Rheinhessen. She farms prime plots in this section of the upper Rheinhessen biodynamically creating wines with incredible purity and tension.

2023 Oppenheim Riesling Trocken, Weingut Kühling-Gillot White | Still | 12.5%

Made mostly from grapes in the Herrenberg GG in Oppenheim. The loess soils are a little warmer, lending more pronounced floral flavours. Orchard fruit, apricot and white peach, with citrus blossom this is very vibrant on the palate with a cool stony note on the ripe finish.

Ready: 2024 - 2038
2023 Nierstein Riesling Trocken, Weingut Kühling-Gillot White | Still | 12.5%

Made up almost entirely of declassified GGs, this year particularly from early-picked Pettenthal fruit, there is a complex mix of floral and yellow peach fruit, spice, soft lemony acidity and dark stony flavours. The finish is long, fresh and silky with real poise and energy.

Ready: 2024 - 2038

Jean Stodden

Ahr

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Located in the cool, Ahr Valley, is Weingut Jean Stodden. This has become a destination for lovers of Pinot Noir within and well beyond Germany. The Stodden family have a history of growing vines that dates back to 1578 but they started making their own wines in their family winery since 1900. Today, and since 2001, the winery is managed by Alexander Stodden who says himself ‘his heart throbs for Pinot’. Farming here is as sustainable as possible using many organic techniques. Certainly inspired by the greatest Pinot Noirs of the world, the style here is both serious and seductive. Look out in particular for the Recher Herrenberg GG.

2022 Spätburgunder JS, Jean Stodden, Ahr Dry | Red | Still | 13%

This charming barrel-aged pinot from Stodden in the tiny Ahr district on the Rhine opens with a little pepper, sandalwood and grilled herbs. On the palate there is real fruit intensity of red and black cherry, hints of cocoa, with a silky texture and a focused, refreshing finish.

Ready: 2024 - 2030
2022 Neuenahrer Sonnenberg Grosses Gewächs, Spätburgunder, Jean Stodden, Ahr Dry | Red | Still | 13%

Planted in the early 1980s, Alexander Stodden has cared for this vineyard since 2001. From Greywacke soils, with some clay, this is a powerful and spectacularly long wine. Notes of dark berries and some spice, and then a mineral finish. Bravo.

Ready: 2024 - 2038
2022 Herrenberg Grosses Gewächs, Spätburgunder, Jean Stodden, Ahr Dry | Red | Still | 13.5%

From the remarkable Herrenberg with a soil of weathered-slate, greywacke this is a powerful and muscular iteration this vintage. Ripe cherry and hedgerow fruit, this maintains real precision on the palate with finely etched tannins, and aromas of sandalwood, cocoa, and nutmeg. The finish is so long and detailed, this is a wine that will age effortlessly.

Ready: 2024 - 2038
2022 Kräuterberg Grosses Gewächs, Spätburgunder Alte Reben, Jean Stodden, Ahr Dry | Red | Still | 13.5%

From extremely rocky terraces, this is mineral style of Pinot Noir that opens with a lift of wild herbs, violets, and warm earth. Linear on the palate the cherry fruit is accented with notes of pepper and cocoa. Very focused on the finish, this is a very detailed and precise wine.

Ready: 2024 - 2040
2022 Alte Reben Spätburgunder, Jean Stodden, Ahr Dry | Red | Still | 13%

From the oldest vines on the estate (alte reben means old vines), this is a wine that wows with its intensity, power and structure. Notes of thyme and a pure core of blue and red fruit are encased in wonderfully refined tannins. And it’s the length that really marks this wine out as special: it’s detailed, pure, and incredibly long. Spectacular.

Ready: 2024 - 2040

Fürst

Franken

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Weingut Fürst has a long history of vine growing in Fraken dating back to 1638. In 1979, Paul and Monika Fürst took over what was a mixed farm, and began to focus on wine, acquiring choice vineyards along the way, and growing the estate to its current 21 hectares, with over 60% Pinot Noir. After studies in Geisenheim and experience in Burgundy, Alsace, Spain and South Africa, not to mention other German estates, Sebastian Fürst joined in 2007, and took control of the estate in 2018. This is an estate that continues to improve in quality year after year with a focus on Burgundian varieties made with a very elegant touch.

2022 Klingenberger Spätburgunder, Fürst, Franconia Dry | Red | Still | 13%

A really silky feel to the wine which opens with violets and red blossom. The palate is finely etched with hedgerow berries and sour cherry. A stoney minerality runs through the wine with a fine flow of fruit all the way to the finish.

Ready: 2024 - 2033
2023 Centgrafenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs, Fürst, Franconia Dry | White | Still | 12.5%

A tightly coiled wine at this stage, is shimmers in the glass with notes of peach, fresh apricot and white grapefruit pith. Very saline and linear through the palate this is wine with a long life ahead.

Ready: 2024 - 2043
2022 Centgrafenberg Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs, Fürst, Franconia Dry | Red | Still | 13%

This is quite a powerful wine with striking aromatics of cherry blossom, violets, but also savoury spice: nutmeg and sandalwood. There is real intensity to the dark cherry fruit, a sleek and silky feel on the palate and a really focused and detailed finish.

Ready: 2024 - 2043
2022 Schlossberg Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs, Fürst, Franconia Dry | Red | Still | 13%

A really beautiful wine that combines finesse and intensity. The dark cherry and hedgerow fruit fans across the palate with accents of pepper, grilled herbs, and a five spice. Quite dense, with a sinewy feel to the tannins, this will take time to show its full potential but it is already an extremely impressive wine this year.

Ready: 2024 - 2043