Vintage Report: Barolo 2020 & Barbaresco 2021

The 2020 vintage for Barolo has produced mid-weight wines with balance, poise and aromatic intensity. At their best, there is a real sense of purity to the wines. Yet it is a vintage that is not totally homogenous across the region.

In general, 2020 can be called a warm vintage, with budbreak occurring around 2 weeks early. Cooler temperatures and rain arrived in June with some localised hail around La Morra and Verduno. The summer months were warm and largely without any heat events. Rain arrived at the end of September and beginning of October which meant it was a vintage that often favoured growers with patience and later ripening sites. While it is a vintage that can be approached early due to the aromatic charm and softer tannin profile, it is clear the wines will most definitely benefit from time in bottle.

The 2021 vintage for Barbaresco is one of the most exciting vintages in recent memory. Here the growing season began slowly, after a cold and rainy winter. The early part of the season remained cool with some frost events in early April and isolated hail at the end of July. From August the temperatures rose and allowed for perfect ripening over the summer period. The wines combine energy, structure, power and class in equal measure.

Pio Cesare

Alba

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Age is everything for the family-owned and run winery of Pio Cesare. The winery was founded over a century ago, in 1881 by Cesare Pio, and is now run by his descendants, the Boffa family. And the winery sits squarely on top of ancient Roman walls in the heart of the town of Alba. With seventy hectares spread across the region, Pio Cesare have access to superior terroir. This, coupled with their traditional production methods, results in some of the most classic, age worthy wines in the region. 

2020 Barolo Ornato, Pio Cesare, Piedmont Dry | Red | Still | 14.5%

From the Ornato vineyard in the commune of Serralunga d'Alba the 2020 vintage is beautifully open and expressive with wild flowers and herbs at the forefront. Expect the structure that this vineyard gives, along with the vibrant acidity and freshness that the 2020 vintage provides.

Young: 2027 - 2045
£82.50
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2020 Barolo, Pio Cesare, Piedmont Dry | Red | Still | 14.5%

The grapes are sourced from a mix of vineyards in several communes in Barolo that provide layers of complexity in the wine. Expect red cherries, blood orange and wild strawberry notes combined with liquorice and black tea aromas. The tannins are well-integrated and provide great structure to the wine's silky core.

Young: 2025 - 2040
£45.50
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G.D. Vajra

Barolo

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This generous, wine-loving family are situated in the tiny village of Vergne in the commune of Barolo, one of the highest points in Piedmont. Surprisingly, given their access to great terroir, the estate was only founded in 1972. Patriarch Aldo started the estate, naming it after his dad, Giuseppe Domenico, and now it’s run alongside his three children, Giuseppe, Francesca, and Isidoro. The high altitude of many of the vineyards means that the grapes ripen later than anywhere else in Piedmont. When this fresh, slow-ripening fruit is pressed used careful winemaking, it delivers some of the most elegant Barolos you’ll find. They’re Barolos for Burgundy lovers.

2020 Barolo Ravera, G. D. Vajra, Piedmont Dry | Red | Still | 14%

Ravera is the largest, most famous cru in Novello, and faces the alps. And the cool winds have brought a freshness and refinement to this wine. There's notes of wild strawberries, as well as blood orange and pomegranate. Long and detailed, this is glorious.

Young: 2028 - 2045
£64.00
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2020 Barolo Coste di Rose, G.D. Vajra Dry | Red | Still | 14%

The newest single vineyard in the range, this is fine-boned and very impressive. Notes of dark cherry and wild herbs swirl from the glass, while the finish is pure, mineral, and very long. It's open knit, with so much to love.

Young: 2028 - 2045
£52.00
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2020 Barolo Baudana, Luigi Baudana, G.D. Vajra Dry | Red | Still | 14%

From the heart of Serralunga d'Alba, this is a brilliant example of why the commune is so highly prized. This is fine boned and mineral, with lots of berry fruit, and also a rose petal character. This will require a little patience. Very good indeed.

Young: 2028 - 2045
£61.00
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2020 Barolo Le Albe, G.D. Vajra, Piedmont Dry | Red | Still | 14%

A wine inspired by traditional Barolo, this blend of a number of different sites is the best way to discover the Barolos of Vajra. A delicate nose of rose petal and wild strawberries gives way to a silky, refined palate. Approachable younger than the single vineyards, this still has the stuffing to age nicely.

Young: 2026 - 2038
£32.00
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Cavallotto

Alba

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Unlike most Piedmont producers where the vineyards are spread over a large area, away from the producer’s home and cellars, the Cavallotto family home and cantina is surrounded by their own vines. This hillside vineyard is called Bricco Boschis. In the hands of these three siblings, with its range of exposures and perfectly tended vines, it leads to some of the greatest Barolos out there. While the wines are traditional expressions of Nebbiolo, the Cavallottos have always been trailblazers in other ways. They were some of the first to experiment with organic viticulture during the 1970s; neighbours thought they were mad. They were also one of the first estates in the whole of Barolo to bottle and sell their wines themselves, in 1948. Over 60 years on, they’re still one of the most sought-after producers in the region.

2020 Barolo Bricco Boschis, Cavallotto, Piedmont Dry | Red | Still | 14%

One of the great vineyards of Barolo, made by the Cavallotto family, in 2020, once again this is a truly exceptional wine. Slightly herbal on the nose, with dark fruit and notes of orange pith bringing lift and elegance. The tannins are incredibly fine, but there’s the structure for a long life. This is brilliant.

Young: 2028 - 2050
£327.00
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£54.50
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2022 Langhe Freisa, Cavallotto Dry | Red | Still | 13.5%

One of the historic grape varieties of Piedmont, this comes from a warm season, but shows impressive texture, juicy fruit, and some lovely energy on the palate. It’s a wine that’s well worth discovering.

Ready: 2024 - 2033
£105.00
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£17.50
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Rocche Costamagna

La Morra

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Owner Alessandro Locatelli has run this welcoming estate in La Morra since the 1980s. But its history stretches back further, to 1841, when Luigi Costamagna first sold the wines produced in his vineyards. The early twentieth century was a struggle: many of the estate’s vineyards were sold off, and they simply made wine for the family. So it was only in the 1960s that Alessandro’s parents, who bought the property, made wine to sell. He’s ably continued their work. His wines receive consistently impressive scores from the critics, while he maintains remarkably reasonable prices. And, he’s opened up the winery to visitors, with a few exclusive rooms upstairs for those who wish to enjoy the sweeping views of vineyards from La Morra’s greatest heights. 

2020 Barolo Rocche dell'Annunziata, Rocche Costamagna, Piedmont Dry | Red | Still | 14.5%

Rocche dell'Annunziata is one of the greatest vineyards in Barolo. Situated on the hillside that runs down from la Morra, one of the best situated plots in the vineyard belongs to Rocche Costamagna. This is fresh and focussed, and there's a beautiful core of dark fruit, with notes of tar and powdery tannins. Always quite an approachable Barolo, this will still stand the test of time.

Young: 2026 - 2043
£159.00
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£26.50
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Cantina Rizzi

Treiso

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Winemaker and avid basketball player Enrico DellaPiana and his sister Jole have taken on Cantina Rizzi from their parents, and move from strength to strength at the helm of this family-run domaine. Some forty years ago, their father Ernesto had decided to leave the city of Turin, and return to the family’s lands in the Langhe, seeking a more traditional, simpler life. The Rizzi cru is the historic land of the domaine, and one of their benchmark Barbarescos, as well as their namesake. These are incredible value Barbarescos, that shouldn’t be missed. 

2021 Barbaresco Nervo, Cantina Rizzi Dry | Red | Still | 14.5%

There’s such a delicate, floral notes, while on the palate there’s notes of blood orange, and other fresh citrus. Hints of anis, orange pith, and salinity all give a phenolic bitterness to the wine, which has you reaching for another glass.

Ready: 2024 - 2038
£29.50
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Castello di Verduno

Verduno

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Castello di Verduno is one of the historic estates of the commune after which it is named. Winemaker Mario is fortunate to work with the grapes from top spots, which in a Grand Cru system would undoubtedly be top rank, not only including Monvigliero in Verduno in the Barolo zone but also Rabaja in Barbaresco. From their ten hectares they promote Barolo and Barbaresco made in the traditional way with long fermentations, use of old Slavonian oak casks and ample ageing for the wines. They’ve also taken the initiative to work with Pelaverga, a rare and ancient native grape, demonstrating the seriousness of their commitment to the region.

2021 Barbaresco, Castello di Verduno, Piedmont Dry | Red | Still | 14%

2021 is a wonderful vintage in Piedmont, and this Barbaresco has so much freshness and intensity to it. Notes of roses, and then fine tannins and plenty of fresh acidity make a Nebbiolo that’s delicious now, but that will age beautifully.

Young: 2025 - 2040
£177.00
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£29.50
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Guido Porro

Serralunga d'Alba

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Guido Porro’s tiny winery has been passed from father to son for four generations. However, it was as late as the 1980s when they started bottling their own Barolos rather than sell the grapes on to a local cooperative. When Guido took over the estate in 1996 from his father, Giovanni, he went one step further. Recognising their remarkable good fortune at owning some of the best land in Serralunga, he decided to bottle wines from different vineyards separately under their respective ‘crus’. They’re perfect for anyone who loves traditional Barolo, because Guido isn’t beholden to trends, and because they’re so terroir-driven. He uses large, fifty year old Slovenian oak barrels, which are mostly neutral by now, and lets his wines age as long as they need.

2020 Barolo Lazzairasco, Guido Porro, Piedmont Dry | Red | Still | 15%

From the Lazzarito cru, from further down the hill from the Santa Catarina. This is balsamic on the nose, but with purity and tension, and savoury, sandy tannins completing the picture. Superb.

Young: 2028 - 2045
£186.00
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£31.00
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2020 Barolo Vigna Santa Caterina, Guido Porro, Piedmont Dry | Red | Still | 15%

From a plot within the Lazzarito Cru, the Vigna Santa Catarina comes from near the top of the hill. There’s a sweetness and purity to the fruit here, with lots of floral notes coming to the fore, and then a very long, saline finish. Delicious.

Young: 2027 - 2042
£174.00
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£29.00
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Giovanni Almondo

Montà

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Ubiquitous on the top restaurant lists of Italy, Almondo are revered by their peers for the quality of their Arneis, an aromatic white grape that’s equally at home as an aperitif or with food. The Almondo family has lived in Montà in Roero for more than 600 years. Today, it’s run by brothers Stefano and Federico alongside their father Domenico, who inherited the family estate (named after their grandfather, Giovanni) in 1980 when it was a mixed fruit farm. However, he’d spotted the potential of the land’s complex soils and southern aspects, so he ripped out the family’s prized cherry orchards and planted vines instead.  They’re now widely considered the greatest producer of Arneis, and by extension one of the great white wine producers of Italy. And their reds are surely the best in the region.

2023 Roero Arneis, Bricco delle Ciliegie, Giovanni Almondo Dry | White | Still | 13%

From a site on the top of the hill, this really is an Arneis apart. So mineral, fresh, with a fine thread of acidity, and such texture on the finish. This is wonderfully judged: it’s fresh, fine, and utterly delicious.

Ready: 2024 - 2030
£72.00
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£12.00
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2020 Roero, Bric Valdiana, Giovanni Almondo Dry | Red | Still

From one of the best sites in Roero for Nebbiolo, this is such a wonderful expression of the grape. It’s elegant but in no way lacking intensity or complexity. There’s a lift on the finish, and it lasts an age. More than a match for the best of the Langhe.

Young: 2025 - 2037
£120.00
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£20.00
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2023 Roero Arneis, Vigne Sparse, Giovanni Almondo Dry | White | Still

A more typical expression of Roero Arneis, this comes from a range of sites. It’s so well balanced, with a core of juicy orchard fruit, and there’s just a hint of spice, and a savoury, ginger-infused finish.

Ready: 2024 - 2028
£57.00
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£9.50
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Azienda Agricola Lalù

Serralunga d'Alba

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Lalù takes its name from best friends Lara Rocchetti & Luisa Sala. They were born in Torino, but met in Pollenzo at the University of Gastronomic Sciences in 2010, where they ended up submitting a joint thesis on how to build a carbon-neutral cantina. After time working abroad, both separately, and together in Burgundy at Comtes Lafon and with Cecile Tremblay, they started their own estate. With a tiny production, and the 2020 just the second release of their Barolo, these shouldn’t be missed.

2022 Langhe Nebbiolo, Azienda Agricola Lalù, Piedmont Dry | Red | Still | 14.5%

Such a brilliant Nebbiolo, this has so much purity, lift, and life in it. Notes of wild strawberries and orange blossom, and then a mineral, juicy finish all combine in a wine that is pure joyfulness in a bottle.

Ready: 2024 - 2035
£150.00
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£25.00
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2022 Barbera d'Alba, Azienda Agricola Lalù, Piedmont Dry | Red | Still | 14%

Lara and Luisa make one of the purest, juiciest, finest Barberas we know. Notes of black fruit, tapenade, and lots of floral notes all swirl from the glass. This is very long, very elegant, and a cut above most examples of the grape.

Ready: 2024 - 2033
£108.00
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£18.00
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Elio Ottin

Aosta

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Elio Ottin only started bottling his own wines in 2007, having previously sold all his grapes, but already he and his son have risen to the very pinnacle of this beautiful mountain region. They still keep a herd of cows (from which they make delicious cheese) and still grow apples for the local cooperative. Indeed, theirs must be one of the most intense harvest periods we’ve come across: during one week in September the family can be harvesting grapes, picking apples, and bringing their herd down from the high, summer alpine pastures. Their wines are crystalline and pure, and some of the most soulful mountain wines you’ll find, anywhere.

2022 Petite Arvine, Ottin, Valle d'Aosta, Italy White | Still | 14.5%

This is a fascinating white, made in such a refined, mineral style. Very pure, with apple fruit and some honeysuckle, but also a mouthwatering salinity on the finish. Brilliant on its own, but also with food.

Young: 2024 - 2028
£17.00
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2020 L'Emerico Pinot Noir, Ottin, Vallee d'Aosta, Italy Red | Still | 13%

From a single, south east facing slope, this is fresh and fine, with lovely balance and a wonderful core of delicate fruit. There’s some spice from the oak, but this is refined and well-judged, and the finish has the same granitic salinity that defines Ottin’s wines. A wonderful Pinot Noir.

Young: 2025 - 2035
£29.00
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Elio Grasso

Monforte d'Alba

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Elio Grasso is one of Piedmont’s most famous names. The estate is a true family affair. The baton was passed seamlessly from dad Elio to son Gianluca a few years ago, but the elder Grasso continues to have an active input in the estate (and always tastes with us when we visit). Even their stunning cellar was designed by Elio’s architect brother. They craft some of the most expressive Nebbiolos we know, from tiny, remarkable plots in the commune of Monforte d’Alba. These wines are so highly sought after throughout the world, there’s not much to go around. They’re always one of the very first from our range to sell out.

2020 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera, Elio Grasso, Piedmont Dry | Red | Still | 15%

Coming from over 40 year old vineyards at 400 metre altitude this wine displays real purity of fruit and tension on the palate. The wine is more approachable than the 2019 vintage.

Young: 2026 - 2043
£366.00
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£61.00
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2020 Barolo Ginestra Casa Maté, Elio Grasso, Piedmont Dry | Red | Still | 15%

On classic Ginestra, clay & limestone soils this wine has bramble fruits, graphite as well as lots of wild herb notes coming through. The tannins are structured and there is great freshness.

Young: 2026 - 2045
£366.00
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£61.00
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2022 Barbera d'Alba Vigna Martina, Elio Grasso, Piedmont Dry | Red | Still

This is a more serious and grown up Barbera with the wine spending 18 months in 40% new french oak. Expect lots of savoury and sweet spice notes combined with bright red berry fruits. The palate is juicy and the tannins are supple and the length is very long.

Ready: 2024 - 2035
£120.00
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£20.00
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2022 Barbera d'Alba Vigna Martina, Elio Grasso, Piedmont Dry | Red | Still

This is a more serious and grown up Barbera with the wine spending 18 months in 40% new french oak. Expect lots of savoury and sweet spice notes combined with bright red berry fruits. The palate is juicy and the tannins are supple and the length is very long.

Young: 2025 - 2036
£43.50
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2023 Dolcetto d'Alba, Dei Grassi, Elio Grasso, Piedmont Dry | Red | Still

Attractive blueberry fruits, redcurrants and red plums with hints of spice and graphite. The palate has a silky texture and there is a wonderful juiciness that lingers for some time.

Young: 2024 - 2030
£69.00
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£11.50
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2023 Educato Langhe Chardonnay, Elio Grasso, Piedmont, Italy Dry | White | Still

From vines planted in 1986, at the highest part of the property, at 450m of altitude. This wine always has a wonderful texture and density and the 2023 doesn't disappoint. There is a salty, mineral character on the finish that persists for quite some time.

Ready: 2024 - 2028
£96.00
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£16.00
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2023 Langhe Nebbiolo, Elio Grasso, Piedmont Dry | Red | Still

Bright, fresh and floral, with hints of wild berries. There is a juicy concentration on the core and the wine displays great structure for a Nebbiolo.

Ready: 2024 - 2032
£93.00
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£15.50
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