Rhône: New Releases

Alain Voge’s pithy sparkling wine, Les Bulles d’Alain, is unlike anything else we have on our list. It is lively, dry, refreshing, and refined. If you’re in the mood for bubbles, but don’t want the weight of a Champagne, this is the perfect option, and a smart price too. It’s a very good example of why Saint-Péray has built its renown for sparkling wines.

This is one of two signature reds at the domaine (the other is the Cornas Les Vieilles Vignes). It is a fruit-driven style with density and finesse. A long, gentle maceration draws out subtle liquorice and dark cherry notes with a lovely volume.

This wine is only made in the best vintages. The wine’s intensity is dialled up, thanks to the 30% whole bunch fruit used and ageing in 30% new oak. There is so much density here, with abundant but fondant tannins. One for the long-haul.

The domaine only makes one wine, and they throw everything they’ve got at it. It is a blend of two parcels from the Côte Blonde and two from the Côte Brune. It is powerful but balanced, with plenty of gusto on the mid-palate. The nose is laden with aromas of violets and tapenade, smoke and spice. Its silky tannins and sappy acidity let the sweet fruit core slowly unfurl. This is a paradigm for Côte-Rôtie’s capacity for purity.

These vines enjoy the freshening influence of altitude. They are located between 120-300 metres high, and as a result, this 2019 has such a charming crunchy, vibrant, fresh texture. There are bursting red berries and mineral freshness. A perfect Crozes if you like freshness and vim in your Syrah, and a stand out from the appellation in 2019.

The is a legendary white in the Southern Rhône. It comes from a tiny parcel of gnarled old Roussanne vines, and is produced in tiny quantities. In 2019 only 6000 bottles were produced.

Honey-scented, and brimming with blossom and orchard aromas. The palate is dry but rich and nicely weighted. It is a blend of mainly Marsanne and Clairette. The Marsanne is grown on limestone and brings a pretty fruit character. The Clairette meanwhile comes from some extremely old vines, aged 140-150 years old. It brings an amazing freshness to the wine, not built around acidity but around salinity. This is such a characterful white, vibrant and charming.

This blend of Greffieux, Méal, and Bessards is one of the finest examples of its type. Some of Bernard’s vines are over 100 years old now, and though he’s not quite that old, he is well into his semi-retirement. He’s given up the rest of his domaine, but he just can’t let go of his Hermitage. It always has a playful floral aroma from barrel, with violets and spiced cassis fruit. It will need a few years in the cellar before approaching, but well worth the wait if you can. Certainly one of his final vintages, if not the very last.

This is classic, old school Châteauneuf from Jean-Paul Versino. It is a blend of 70% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, and 10% other varieties which give it spice and backbone. Grainy tannins give it pep and vigour. Its open fruit ensures it will drink well from early on, and should glide into old age with style.

This is a special cuvée made from old vines, with a high proportion of Mourvèdre in the blend (30%). In 2018 Jean-Paul couldn’t make this cuvée as volumes were so reduced by mildew, so 2019 sees a happy return. It is very dense and peppery, with some wild garrigue herbs entwined in the kirsch fruit.

This is Clusel Roch’s classic blend. It comes from a range of vineyards across the Côte Brune, including Le Plomb, Montmains, and Bas de Coteau. Spicy and graphite-textured, with floral notes, and some intense black olive and cassis notes beneath. A classic Côte-Rôtie.

La Viallière is one of the great sites of the Côte Brune. Its mid-slope position and high proportion of gravelly stones aid drainage and produce wines of great finesse. It is savoury, smooth, and long, with silky tannins and peppery freshness.

This is the most intense and floral wine in the Courbis cellar. It has a wonderful nose brimming with peonies and dried rosemary. The tannins are textured and abundant, finely interlaced with the dark, minty fruit.

Sybarine comes from vines very close to the Garon cellar on the Côte Blonde. Its granite soils make for an open, refined, and silky Côte-Rôtie, and is the earliest drinking of the four Garon cuvées. In 2019 it is so peppery and vibrant, with a tangy freshness. Very pure and upfront.

This is one of the finest sites of the Côte Blonde, and it produces a wine of huge elegance and subtlety, although you’ll want to tuck it away for a few years before pulling the cork.

Juicy and pure, light-footed and elegant, this Syrah has such a smooth and fresh frame, it will drink well from the off. It comes from vines near Ampuis, planted higher up, just above the Côte Rôtie appellation. It is bursting with fruit, high energy, and joyful in its expression. Another triumph from this young domaine. Stock up.

This is perhaps the wine that needs the most explanation in the Bott cellar. The name may sound unfamiliar. Don’t worry, we’d never tried a Seyssuel either. It comes from vines planted just a 10 minute drive from Ampuis. The soils here are made up of schist and gneiss and Julie says they look shiny when the sunlight catches them. There’s no granite here, on the other side of the river, and the Syrah is floral and pinot-esque, with an elegant texture. Kamata is the Maori work for rock or stone, and a nod to Graeme’s Kiwi origins. Light, fragrant, and delectable. More than a curiosity.

This was, until recently, called ‘Signature’, but has been renamed Cuvée Julien Barrot, and is Julien’s flagship wine. It is rich and woven-through with ripe tannin and forest berry flavours. It has a silky body and a long, fruit-driven finish that promised complexity in the years to come.

The domaine might have 15 hectares in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but a wine you shouldn’t miss is this cuvée, from lesser-known Châteauneuf-de-Gadagne just to the south. The name is a nod to their ability to throw off the constraints of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape regulations in this peppery and fragrant wine. It is mainly Grenache with some Mourvèdre, Carignan and Syrah thrown in for good measure.

This comes from one-hundred-year-old Grenache vines planted in the sandy soils near Château Rayas. It has intense minerality and saltiness. There is power there, but it feels smooth and refined, and gives the impression of weightlessness.

This is a blend of two parcels and is the hidden gem of Sorrel’s range. 20% comes from Bessards, and 80% from Les Plantiers, just below Le Méal. These vines produce fruit with real power, and this wine has a great presence. But the floral tones and salty fruit make it more accessible than the Gréal, and mean it should start to open up a little earlier.

Le Gréal is a unique and special blend, and the signature wine of the Sorrel domaine. 90% is drawn from the lauded Le Méal parcel, at 10% from Les Gréffieux, on the Hermitage hillside. There is a small amount of Marsanne co-planted amongst the Syrah that makes it into the blend, adding freshness and mollifying the tannins. These Sorrel vines date back to 1928 and produce exquisite concentration. This is an astonishing wine, and consistently one of the hottest tickets in the Northern Rhône. It is fragrant, concentrated, powerful and poised. It demands cellaring, and will reward many times over for those who can wait.

This comes from old vines planted in the historic vineyard. It is undeniably powerful, and would benefit from a few years in the cellar.

Although Domaine Ogier is based in Ampuis in the Northern Rhône, Stéphane has made one very savvy investment in the South. From a site near Cairanne he produces this brilliant value Cotes du Rhône. It delivers fantastically juicy, lightly grippy length, with an abundance of sweet red fruit flavours, thanks to the 60% Grenache in the blend.