2020 Savennières La Jalousie, Domaine du Closel
The family-owned Domaine du Closel delicious white wines are made from Chenin Blanc grown in the Loire Valley appellation of Savennières. Until very recently, it was run by Evelyne de Pontbriand (who sadly passed away in November 2024), one of the wine world’s most charming characters. Marrying viticultural tradition with dynamic modern practices, the wines have gained a firm following. These are classic, benchmark Savennières; wines that demonstrate their maker’s charm and commitment to quality.
This comes from various parcels of younger vines, aged around 20 years old. The name is a tongue-in-cheek nod to a dispute many years back with a neighbouring vigneron. In Savennières, the vignerons have a wicked sense of humour as well as great pride in their appellation. The grapes are picked at the beginning of harvest, and there is a pithy, salty tang to the dry, textural palate. It's the lightest weight of the Closel wines, but now with a few years of bottle age displays delicious honey and beeswax notes.
2020 Menetou-Salon Blanc, Antoine Van Remoortere
Young, dynamic winemaker Antoine Van Remoortere produces a fantastic example of Menetou-Salon, an area very close to Sancerre and Pouilly-sur-Loire that produces Sauvignon Blancs to rival these prestigious names. Antoine is a winemaker with a very bright future ahead, creating a precise yet generous wine.
Complex smoky and floral on the nose. This is terroir-driven Sauvignon Blanc, with superb texture and balance. It is precise and layered, full of savoury, dried herb and grassy notes on the palate. Impressive length. A perfect accompaniment to fish dishes or goats cheese.
2020 Bourgueil Le Haut de la Butte, Domaine de la Butte, Jacky Blot
Considered one of the Loire's most talented winemakers, Jacky Blot set a new standard with his dry Chenin Blancs, Cabernet Francs and sparkling wines. Sadly Jacky passed away in 2023 and his domaines, including Domaine de La Butte in Bourgueil, are now run by his talented son, Jean-Philippe. He similarly crafts Cabernet Francs of unusual purity and finesse, which are widely recognized as some of the best in the region.
As the name suggests, this fruit comes from the top of the slope. The fruit feels darker than that of the Pied de la Butte, and the tannins are always more present but now with a few years of age these have softened beautifully. There’s a graphite, savoury complexity to the dark fruit and a wonderful texture through the long finish.