Here is a wine to make you reimagine what you thought you knew about Aussie Shiraz, with so much purity and refinement, and lots of peppery spice. It comes from the original By Farr vineyard, with the vines planted in 1994, just like the Chardonnay. This is co-fermented with a small amount of Viognier (as is often the case in Côte-Rôtie), and Gary and Nick use a proportion of whole bunches in the fermentation to maintain elegance and lift. This is a must-buy: one of the most thrilling Shiraz we’ve come across.

‘GC’ stands for Gary Charles, aka ‘Gazza’ and this wine pays tribute to Gary Farr’s knowledge and achievements over the past 40 years. The Chardonnay is sourced from the Côte Vineyard, which according to the Farrs, will make up the ‘backbone’ of the By Farr wines for the decades to come. This site consists of diversity of aspects (North/North-East/East) as well as soil types, including loam, limestone and black volcanic soils. The grapes are whole bunch pressed and fermented in French oak barrels, of which 50% is new, with some light lees stirring to help to start the malolactic fermentation. This Chardonnay was bottled 11 months after picking. The 2023 ’GC’ Chardonnay is long on the palate brimming with wonderful notes of lemon curd, with textured, precise fruit and its typical mineral and tightly-coiled freshness.

The Chardonnay is sourced from the same vineyard as the ‘Sangreal’ Pinot Noir, planted in 1994. The site sits at an elevation of 120 metres above sea level on an exposed north facing slope, composed of red soil over limestone and planted with Dijon and Penfolds 58 clones. The fruit is hand-picked and whole bunched pressed on arrival at the winery. The wine is fermented in French oak barrels, of which 30% is new. Post fermentation, light lees stirring encouraged the start of malolactic fermentation before bottling 11 months after harvest. The Geelong Chardonnay offers power and length with a mineral finish, alongside vibrant fruit expression combined with well-integrated French oak. The palate is fine yet firm, with great acidity, texture and length.

The 2023 Côte Rôtie is, as usual, destemmed, and uses around 20% new oak during its 14 month ageing. This is a very detailed wine with a real sense of classicism to it. Supple with pristine hedgerow fruit, there is purity and charm to the aromatics of pepper, violets, black olive which fan across the palate. The finish is beautifully long and balanced – such a charming wine that will excite any Northern Rhône fan.

This must be the most reliably brilliant N/V rosé champagne out there. Delicate onion skin pink, with savoury notes and a gentle but sophisticated lift of red fruits on the nose. The palate is exceptionally smooth, with creamy bubbles and a long, elegant finish.

One of the finest wines of South Australia, made by the legendary Brian Croser from his The Tiers Vineyard which is planted with vines from his original Petaluma vineyard. The vines sit around 450m above sea level and 2023 was a cool vintage here bringing incredible freshness and a razor sharp line of saline acidity. The palate is refined and focussed, with lime, grapefruit, white peach and white blossom bringing elegant lift. Very persistent and fine.

A vibrant Sassicaia that defies the warmth of this vintage, the wine opens with notes of cocoa nibs, white pepper and rose petal. There is a power, and supple core of cherry fruit to the wine with a gravelly, mineral undertone. This is coiled and bursts forward on the palate with a sappy energy and intensity. This isn’t a flamboyant wine, rather the opposite – this is an athletic, poised and precise Sassicaia.

A vibrant Sassicaia that defies the warmth of this vintage, the wine opens with notes of cocoa nibs, white pepper and rose petal. There is a power, and supple core of cherry fruit to the wine with a gravelly, mineral undertone. This is coiled and bursts forward on the palate with a sappy energy and intensity. This isn’t a flamboyant wine, rather the opposite – this is an athletic, poised and precise Sassicaia.

A vibrant Sassicaia that defies the warmth of this vintage, the wine opens with notes of cocoa nibs, white pepper and rose petal. There is a power, and supple core of cherry fruit to the wine with a gravelly, mineral undertone. This is coiled and bursts forward on the palate with a sappy energy and intensity. This isn’t a flamboyant wine, rather the opposite – this is an athletic, poised and precise Sassicaia.

The nose of the 2023 Difese opens with fresh aromas of cherry blossom, cranberry and hedgerow fruit. A subtle note of cocoa and wild herbs mingles with the fruit and you feel the fine web of tannins clothing the fruit. A little more Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend this year (35%), there is a both charm and structure to the Difese this year.