Your Complete Burgundy 2023 Guide

Domaine Jean-Claude et Romain Bessin-Tremblay

Romain Bessin has calmly stepped into his father’s shoes at the understated but superb domaine in the sleepy hamlet of La Chapelle Vaupelteigne. Like Jean-Claude, he is self-effacing and modest in a way that belies the confidence of the winemaking going on here. These wines remain a relative secret, though they are beginning to gain a (well-deserved) wider reputation, thanks to the praise heaped on them by critics in recent years. These are Chablis with soul, and the 2023s are a set of wines you’ll want to get acquainted with. The domaine continues to up its organic and biodynamic game with every vintage.

The 2023s are multi-faceted and full of energy. Fresh and approachable, Romain heralds the year as a more classic Chablis vintage, akin to a combination of 2017 and 2022. Their Valmur may also just be the best value grand cru out there.

Samuel Billaud

Samuel left his family domaine to set up on his own in 2009, and over the past decade has carved out a place for himself among the top names in the appellation. Both Neal Martin and William Kelley now tip him as a topflight producer here. With a singular and energetic determination, he has accomplished this by sticking to one simple principle: making the kind of Chablis he likes to drink. This happens to be a taut, coiled style that lies at the tight, mineral end of the Chablis spectrum. He achieves this through early picking, minimal use of oak, and long ageing on lees. The wines are reductive, edgy, and piercing.

Samuel described his 2023s as pure and generous with great tension - I can’t think of a better way to sum them up. He added “it’s time to drink 2023 while we wait for 2019 and 2022."

Domaine Jean-Paul et Benoît Droin

Benoît Droin is undoubtedly one of the most consistent growers of his generation. His collection of distinctive but cohesive Chablis are a series of mini masterpieces that each add up to a remarkable body of work. And each vintage he notches up is a reminder of his unwavering consistency. This makes his wines a seriously attractive buy. Prices have remained reasonable, and yet show one of these against any grander (more expensive) white Burgundy from the Côte D’Or and the Droin will at the very least hold it to a draw, if not positively run circles around it.

The 2023s remind Benoît of the 2017s and 2022s - two vintages we absolutely love. There is a great fruit intensity, and a wonderful freshness to boot. He loves the 2023s for their accessibility, commenting that they are wines that "smile earlier." These are the work of a winemaker at the top of his game.

Domaine William Fèvre

William Fèvre can take much credit for shaping the story of modern Chablis. He took charge of the historic family domaine in 1957, growing it from seven to an impressive 50 hectares at a time when life was hard, and vineyards infrequently turned a profit. He was one of the most influential characters of the post-war Chablis story, bringing the region back from the brink and making it into the profitable and exciting appellation it is today. After a lifetime of shrewdly amassing the choicest premier and grand cru sites, he retired in 1998, selling to négociant Bouchard who wasted no time in buying even more vineyards and installing talented régisseur, Didier Séguier, at the helm.

The domaine has since been sold on, but Didier remains in post: he’s one of the most knowledgeable and affable winemakers we know. Indeed, his enthusiasm for environmental sustainability and biodiversity, impeccable winemaking talents, and infectious adoration for the Chablis region have driven the estate forward and established it as one of the greatest producers of premiers and grands crus Chablis. His 2023s are classical and precise wines with stylish appeal.

Domaine Gilbert Picq - New Producer

Based in the sleepy village of Chicée just a few minutes’ drive southeast of the town of Chablis itself, you will find the wonderful wines of Didier Picq, an exciting new addition to the Lay & Wheeler list. Didier has been crafting beautifully pure and classical Chablis wines for over four decades since he joined his father at the estate back in the late 1970s. He is a thoughtful, well-respected winemaker whose style is understated elegance.

The estate spans around 13 hectares in total all based around the village of Chicée with numerous old vine parcels. He has various village bottlings of Chablis as well as two premier cru parcels in Vaucoupin and Vosgros, producing wines which are capable of long ageing.

Didier largely manages the winemaking while his brother Pascal tends the vineyards. The winery itself is spotless and Didier's is one of the few domaines now vinifying only in stainless steel with natural yeasts. The village Chablis is generally aged for around 12 months and bottled before the new vintage, while the premiers crus can spend an extra six months on the fine lees before bottling. His 2023s are precise, classy and absolutely delicious.

Domaine Bruno Clair

The quality improvements here since 2015 have been dramatic. All three of Bruno’s children, Édouard, Arthur, and Margaux, have now joined the domaine. Their ascension has marked a clear gear change in quality at what is one of the most comprehensive domaines in Burgundy. The substantial estate covers a lot of ground, stretching from Marsannay right down the Côte de Nuits and into the Côte de Beaune. The headliners here - Clos de Bèze, Bonnes Mares, and Clos St Jacques - regularly outpace the competition in the annual Burgfest tasting. But their village Marsannays are as serious and interesting as their grands crus. It’s exciting to learn that the village is well underway with its application for premier cru status, with high hopes for 2025.

Édouard and Arthur have been slowly increasing the amount of whole-bunch fruit used in the reds, and in 2023 there is around 50% used across the range (apart from 20% on the Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru La Dominode). The brothers have been honing their skill, and have judged 2023 superbly well - gentle handling, means the wines are full of vibrancy, finesse and sapidity. Arthur loves 2023 for its approachability, emphasizing it is “a vintage for everyone.”

Some wines on allocation

Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet

Amélie Berthaut took over her father’s Fixin domaine in 2013. She was also able to add her mother’s Vosne-based vineyards, thus creating one large 18 hectare domaine with parcels running the length of the Côte de Nuits. Her arrival has marked a clear shift in gear at the domaine, and has put the village of Fixin on the map. Her husband, Nicolas Faure, who also has a successful but much smaller domaine of his own, is chef des vignes. Together they are making some game-changing wines.

In the cellar, she practices far softer extraction than her father’s generation, and a shorter élévage, too. She says she has learned from 2018: the secret to getting 2023 right was to go early. 2023 is one of her most accomplished vintages yet, and for fans of her 2016s and 2017s over the more massive and structural 18/19/20s, this is another vintage to snap up. Amélie is very happy with the quality of the harvest produced in 2023, despite not being able to use much of her characteristic whole bunch due to space constraints. She has produced an expressive and refined set of wines, exuberating charm and refinement.

Some wines on allocation

Domaine Duroché

With every year, this domaine grows in stature, and subsequently, demand. And that is because shy and modest Pierre Duroché is making some of the most exciting and delicious Gevrey-Chambertins around. It’s hard to define what the secret is here: the work in the vineyards is along organic lines, most of the fruit is destemmed, extraction is carefully done during a fairly short cuvaison, and élevage, with a very limited amount of new oak, lasts 12-15 months. Basically, nothing out of the ordinary for a top quality Burgundy domaine.

So the key to it all is simple: Duroché has amazing terroir, and Pierre’s winemaking style just helps reveal it in its purest, most expressive form. This domaine is rightly rising up the ranks, and is now knocking on the door of the very top tier.

All wines on allocation

Domaine Rossignol-Trapet

This domaine has long been a trailblazer of biodynamic farming in Burgundy. They converted their first parcel in 1997, and by 2004 all 13 hectares of the domaine had been converted, with them becoming fully certified in 2005. The philosophy to work as naturally as possible governs all that they do, from vineyard to cellar. Today the domaine is run by brothers Nicolas and David. Their father is a Rossignol from Volnay, their mother a Trapet from Gevrey-Chambertin. Hence the split of vineyards: most are concentrated in Gevrey-Chambertin, but there are a few outliers in Beaune well worth exploring.

The wines are bright and fragrant, often with a light, elegant structure and a long, savoury finish. As you move up the appellations, the wines gain impressive density. The wines are fresh and red-fruited, with a cool, balanced length.

Some wines on allocation

Domaine Armand Rousseau

As soon as you taste an Armand Rousseau wine, you realise why their name inspires such awe in the fine wine world, and why their wines are so fiercely snapped up. The transparency of terroir the wines show is an utter joy: they are brilliant because they are so quintessentially Burgundian. The domaine is now run by Cyrielle Rousseau, who is continuing the exceptional work of the generations that came before her.

The domaine releases its wines a little later than most, so this year we have the superb 2022s on offer.

All wines on allocation. Late release: 2022

Domaine des Lambrays

Domaine des Lambrays has undergone some major changes in the past few years. New régisseur Jacques Devauges (ex-Clos de Tart) took over at the beginning of 2019, and major building works have ensued to modernise the cellar. 2019 also marked the first fully organic year in the vineyard. A series of small harvests have meant demand has far outstripped supply.

Jacques vinifies the distinct plots within the 8.66 hectares vineyard separately, guiding them through élévage. This way he is able to build up a complex and expressive wine, with layers of nuance. He has also done away with the old rotary fermenters in favour of gentle extraction in small open tanks. But some tenets of the old guard remain the same: the dominance of whole-bunch fruit and the generous use of new oak continue the domaine’s classic style forward, whilst the terroir of the Clos remains, as ever, one of the greatest in the region.

In recent years, the domaine has decided to step back from the main en primeur campaign, and will release their sought-after wines in Spring 2025.

Late release: 2023 in Spring 2025

Domaine Dujac

Domaine Dujac was only founded by Jacques Seysses in 1967 but, in just two generations, it has grown to become one of the most in-demand domaines in the fine wine world. His sons Alec and Jeremy now run the estate, with the help of Jeremy’s American wife, Diana. They are known for their use of whole-bunch, as well as their staggeringly brilliant array of terroirs across the Côte de Nuits. The wines have grown in delicacy and refinement over the years.

The domaine releases their wines a little later than others, so we will have the 2022s to offer in Spring 2025.

All wines on allocation. Late release: 2022 in Spring 2025

Domaine Stéphane Magnien

This tiny domaine has just 4.5 hectares of vines, but remarkably covers an impressive 12 appellations, including two grands crus. Today, it is run by the dynamic Stéphane, and all the vineyards he tends have been in the family for over 100 years. There are many Magniens in this part of Burgundy, but funnily enough, none are relations of Stéphane, who is more closely related to the Lignier family of Morey-Saint-Denis than those who share his family name.

Given its small size, and the fact that other larger producers share the Magnien name, it’s little surprise this domaine continues to fly under the radar. And although I’d still call these the hidden gems of the list, customers have caught on now, and the small volumes of excellent-value, top-class wines are snapped up quickly. These 2023s once again warrant decisive action.

Domaine Ponsot

Domaine Ponsot’s cellar sits atop the hill overlooking the vineyards of Morey St Denis, with views stretching the length of the Côte de Nuits. They are one of the, if not the, defining domaines of the village, and the largest landowners in the hallowed terroir of Clos de la Roche Grand Cru.

The estate has been in the Ponsot family since 1872. Laurent Ponsot brought the estate to fame, with his flare for producing distinctive wines that broke the mould. His departure in 2017 saw the domaine transferred to the safe hands of his sister, Rose-Marie, whose appointment of régisseur Alexandre Abel has ensured the domaine’s signature style of late picking, destemming, and exclusion of new oak during élevage continued seamlessly. These are intense, concentrated, and fabulously long-lived wines, keenly sought-out by the domaine’s many loyal followers.

The domaine releases later than others, and these 2022s were offered in summer 2024, all but selling out on release.

Late release: 2022 released Summer 2024

Domaine Arlaud

Cyprien Arlaud is a busy man: five children, a decent-sized domaine and a thriving négociant business keep him occupied. But even with so many plates spinning, he still likes to do things the best way, which often means the slow way. He farms some of his vineyards by horse alone, and has been practising exceptional vineyard husbandry for a very long time. The domaine has been organic since 2004, and started to convert to biodynamics in 2009, becoming certified in 2014. For many years he’s practiced the newer ‘softer’ pruning techniques which are now all the rage. The domaine might have only been around for three generations (since the 1950s), but the vineyards are tended with the wisdom of a vigneron whose thoughtful appreciation of the rhythms of the season have seen the vines cope well with the extreme growing conditions of recent years.

His 2023s are a very accomplished, precise set of wines, eloquent expressions of Pinot Noir, with tender fruit and gentle spice, and each climat clearly expressed.

Since 2012 Cyprien has added a small selection of négociant wines, from vineyards managed organically by the Arlaud team throughout the year, which are bottled under the label ‘& Arlaud’.

Some wines on allocation

Domaine Ghislaine Barthod

Ghislaine Barthod is one of the most sought-after names in the village. In many ways, it’s a domaine that’s easy to understand: Ghislaine only makes Chambolles. Her wines appeal to purists both on paper and in the glass. But it can also be one of the most complicated domaines to understand: she has 11 premiers crus in the village, and many of them can be as awkward and reticent in their youth as they are spell-binding and seductive with age. Even her Bourgogne can take a decade to come around in more backward years. You’re never quite sure whether it’s going to be the hardest or the easiest barrel tasting when you visit.

Her cool cellar means slow development for these precise and intense wines. They have a transparent coolness and the deeply charged character of their terroirs. The increasing involvement of her son, Clément, is only set to drive quality further.

All wines on allocation.

Domaine Felettig

Brother and sister team Gilbert and Christine Felettig have continued the good work of their father, Henri, since 1997. Gilbert’s daughter, Pauline, joined the family team in 2020, after finishing her stage at Domaine de l’Arlot with Géraldine Godot.

These wines are glossy, precise, pure, and hugely popular. The domaine is spread across many small parcels, and they make an astonishing 30 cuvées from their 12 hectares in and around Chambolle Musigny. “It’s a large family!” Gilbert laughs. 2023 offered Gilbert the opportunity to apply around 20-40% whole-bunch and the generous new oak he likes best. The vintage sees balance and elegance on full display in the Felettig wines.

Their négociant business wines are labelled ‘Gilbert et Christine Felettig’ rather than Domaine.

Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat

Charles van Canneyt’s trajectory is seemingly vertical, as his domaine’s reputation climbs ever higher with each vintage. He’s no longer the new kid on the block in this smart, exclusive sector of Burgundy. He’s got an impressive track record under his belt at his grandfather’s domaine, having taken up his position in 2008. Since then his style has gradually evolved, and the wines have taken on a precision and purity. It’s no wonder his following has become so strong now that there is insatiable demand. He is a firm believer that destemming the fruit helps reveal terroir nuance, and the new oak in his cellar is sensitively applied. These silky, supple, deep wines feel supported by but never overwhelmed by the oak.

From the 2022 vintage onwards, Charles decided to step back from the main en primeur campaign, and will release his sought-after wines in Spring 2025.

All wines on allocation. Late release: 2023 in Spring 2025

Domaine Sylvain Cathiard et fils

Sébastien Cathiard now has over a decade behind him at the domaine that his father, Sylvain, built from nothing. Under Sylvain’s tenure the domaine had already become one of Burgundy’s most sought-after, and Sébastien has only elevated quality further, meaning these wines have become some of the region’s most highly-prized by collectors. The bold use of new oak of Sylvain’s era (where almost everything was 100%) has been reined in by Sébastien somewhat. With that change he has brought a clarity and precision that makes the wines fabulously delicious in their youth, as well as jaw-droppingly beautiful with a little time. It continues to be one of the most collectable addresses in Vosne-Romanée.

All wines on allocation

Domaine Michel Gros

There are four domaines that bear the Gros name in and around Vosne-Romanée, which are all part of the same larger family. The family business was split up a few generations ago, and each has evolved with its own unique style. The Michel Gros cellars sit between those of Mugneret-Gibourg and François Lamarche, and this particular Gros domaine has some equally well placed vineyards. The most notable of these is their Vosne-Romanée monopole premier cru, Clos des Réas, which has been in the Gros family since 1860. They also have substantial vineyards in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits from which they make some very good value wines.

Recently, Michel’s son, Pierre, joined the domaine, starting with the 2019 vintage. He is the seventh generation of this branch of the family to make wines, and is already bringing about changes. Winemaking is fairly traditional here with a long élévage with plenty of well-toasted new oak, and the wines are structured, deep, and long-lived.

Domaine Jean Grivot

The Grivots have a long history in Vosne, and both Jean and son Etienne can be credited with cementing the reputation of the family name. But it has been with the arrival of Etienne’s children, Mathilde and Hubert, that the domaine has really leapt forward. The wines are no longer as extracted and austere as in the past. They have a tenderness and crystalline purity to them, thanks to the gentler winemaking introduced by Mathilde. It is quite rightly now one of the hottest tickets in town.

2023s see the family once again bring their full talents to the fore. These are focussed, precise and layered wines, with a deeply Burgundian feel about them. They couldn’t be from anywhere else in the world.

Some wines on allocation

Nicole Lamarche

With 2019 came the realisation of a major shift in gear at this address. Its name changed from Domaine François Lamarche to Nicole Lamarche. The estate had been divided, with Nicole’s cousin’s share sold to Comte Liger-Belair. But crucially, although Nicole lost her Malconsorts, she has kept the family’s magnificent monopole grand cru that lies plum between Romanée-Conti and La Tâche - La Grande Rue - intact. Her new-found independence has seen the wines leap in quality.

In 2023 the wines have their classical pale colour and translucent sweet aromatic fruit. These wines are brimming with red fruits, freshness, and lacy fine tannins. They are as striking and characterful as the woman who makes them.

Some wines on allocation

Domaine Georges Noëllat

Maxime Cheurlin is both a young and dynamic fresh face on the Burgundy scene (he’s only in his early 30s), and an old soul, laid back and with a wealth of wisdom already learned from his 12 vintages at the helm of his family domaine. He grew up in Champagne, but was quick to take up the opportunity of running his grandmother’s Vosne-Romanée domaine when the chance arose. She had mostly sold the fruit off to négociants like Louis Jadot and Joseph Drouhin, but her vineyards were rich in old vines, many tipping the hundred year mark. They were the perfect platform for an ambitious young talent.

Since installing himself in the Côte de Nuits’ most exclusive village, he’s built up the business to encompass a decent-sized domaine (c.11 hectares) with a successful négociant business (c.20 hectares) on the side. Some wines include a mixture of domaine and non-domaine fruit, and so bear the Maxime Cheurlin Noëllat name on the label. To all intents and purposes though, there is little difference between the two labels. They are all made at the same address, and by this same remarkable man. Moreover, across the range, the wines are thrilling: tense and brimming with energy.

Maxime releases his wines a little later than others, and thus we are featuring the 2022 vintage here.

Some wines on allocation. Late release: 2022

Domaine Méo-Camuzet

Domaine Méo-Camuzet is inextricably linked with the story of legendary tenant farmer, Henri Jayer. Jean-Nicolas Méo took over the domaine in 1989, but before his arrival at the family domaine, the vineyards had been rented to tenant farmers, including Jayer, who was a mentor to Jean-Nicolas in his early career.

Jayer’s influence continues to echo through the vintages to today. The wines are polished, opulent, voluptuous, and intense. Alongside the domaine, Jean-Nicolas has built up a highly respected micro-négociant business, Méo-Camuzet Frères et Soeurs, much of whose fruit is sourced from vineyards the Méos farm themselves. The 2023s show a taut control of new oak, and rewardingly ripe yet finessed fruit flavours in the wines.

Some wines on allocation

Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg

Sisters Marie-Christine and Marie-Andrée make some of Burgundy’s greatest wines. They do so with little pomp, and rely heavily on their close-knit family team. Both of Marie-Andrée's daughters (Marion and Fanny) and one of Marie-Christine’s (Lucie) are now a part of daily vineyard and cellar life at the domaine, and they are supported by longstanding assistant, Florence. Six women, one domaine, and a blisteringly brilliant record for making some of the greatest wines not just in Burgundy, but in the world.

Their winemaking is fairly traditional, with almost everything destemmed, a two week cuvaison, and measured extraction techniques to conjure the sumptuous dimensions of ripe, low-yielding Pinot Noir from their superb vineyards. These wines have a potent elegance, and a class all of their own. It is refreshing to note that in spite of their huge reputation, they remain the most down-to-earth and hospitable team you could hope to meet.

All wines on allocation

Domaine de l'Arlot

This beautiful domaine in Premeaux-Prissey was bought by insurers Axa Millésimes in 1987, whose other estates include Quinta do Noval in Portugal and Château Pichon Baron in Bordeaux. Axa’s man at the top, Christian Seely, not only had the good judgement to appoint Géraldine Godot to the post of régisseuse in 2015, but also had the good sense to let her get on with her job, allowing her free reign to make the style of wines she loves.

She has thrived here, and her hard work is paying dividends for the estate’s remarkable holdings, including two monopoles, Clos de l’Arlot and Clos des Forêts. Her style brings finesse and delicacy to the reds. These 2023s show flare and confidence.

Some wines on allocation

Domaine Faiveley

Domaine Faiveley is one of the most prestigious names of Nuits-Saint-Georges. It was founded in 1825 and is still under family control, today it is run by seventh generation brother and sister, Erwan and Eve Faiveley. Their modern story is far more about their domaine holdings than their négociant past.

Their magnificent vineyards stretch across the length of Burgundy, and are particularly rich in Côte de Nuits grands crus. All the wines are vinified in their magnificent cellars in Nuits, which are more like a cathedral to wine than a winery. Faiveley may be big, but they’re also brilliant.

Domaine Bertrand et Axelle Machard de Gramont

Axelle had joined her father, Bertrand, in 2005, with what she now admits were some fairly rose-tinted ambitions for a bucolic organic revamping of the family’s Nuits-St-Georges domaine. She has stayed true to her ambitions (the domaine was certified organic in 2014), but she quickly came to realise that organic farming was hard work. Happily, the challenges have only made her grow as a vigneronne. She moved from cramped cellars in the centre of Nuits up to the remote Hautes-Côtes village of Curtil-Vergy, and is now in sole charge of the 6-hectare domaine, from which she makes a beautiful array of Nuits-St-Georges reds and a particularly mouthwatering Aligoté from a parcel of vines up near the isolated cellar.

There are no flashy vineyards in the portfolio, but the wines are worthy of serious attention for anyone who likes Pinot made with a light but experienced touch, where whole-bunch, new oak, and other winemaking fashions are not toyed with. Axelle doesn’t release her wine en primeur, so we are currently selling her 2022s. They have the vintage’s natural character: rich, robust, and muscular, and could do with some time to come around.

Late release: 2022 released in Spring 2025

Marchand-Tawse

Québécois Pascal Marchand first came to Burgundy in 1983 first working at Domaine Comte Armand and Domaine de la Vougerie, before establishing his own business. In 2006 he founded négociant Marchand-Tawse in collaboration with Ontario-born businessman, and Burgundy nut, Moray Tawse.

In 2012 they bought the nine-hectare Gevrey-Chambertin estates, Domaine Maume. From 2016 onwards all the winemaking from both branches of the business has taken place in the company’s main cellars in Nuits-St-Georges, and from the 2021 vintage onwards, all the cuvées have been brought under the Marchand-Tawse label, however the domaine-owned wines are labelled with the extra signification of “Vignes de la famille Tawse”. Collectors who have followed the Gevrey estate from early on can rest assured its integrity remains intact. The wines of both domaine and négociant share much in common, not least their fabulous quality which repeatedly earns them plaudits from the critics, so it makes sense they now all fall under the same label.

The domaine wines continue to be made by talented Englishman Mark Fincham, while Thomas Dinel ushers the impressive négociants wines through the cellar. Mark says the 2023s are fantastic drinking wines, full of finesse and flavour. He is also a big fan of new oak in this vintage, where it added complexity and steel to the wines. A classy set of 2023s.

Some wines on allocation

Domaine Jean-Marc Millot

This domaine has witnessed one of the most successful generation shifts we’ve come across, with Jean-Marc’s talented daughter Alix Millot stepping up to the plate. The cellars might be based in Nuits-St-Georges, but most of their wines come from the appellations just beyond, including the truly excellent Côtes de Nuits-Villages.

Alix has also inherited some beautiful vineyards in and around Vosne and Flagey-Echézeaux from her mother, which have been a part of the domaine since 1987, including an exceptional parcel of premier cru Les Suchots, as well as three grands crus (Echézeaux, Grands-Echézeaux, and Clos de Vougeot). She has been in charge of winemaking since 2016, and the wines have taken on an extra precision and definition in her hands. Demand, quite deservedly, increases every year as Alix earns a name as one of the most exciting young winemakers in the region. The 2023 wines are supple, balanced and precise, with the vintage’s readable terroir expression on display. “I really love this vintage! We didn’t expect this quality with such a large harvest” Jean-Marc smiled.

Some wines on allocation

Domaine Michèle et Patrice Rion

Michèle and Patrice established their domaine in 2000, having split from Patrice’s father’s domaine - Domaine Daniel Rion. They are now joined by their son, Maxime, who has helped navigate the choppy waters of inheriting some family vineyards back, seeing the domaine grow by two and a half hectares in 2022, with the welcome addition of more Bourgogne and Vosne-Romanée parcels. They used the négociant label, Patrice Rion, in the transitioning years where they were obliged to buy fruit from family vineyards, but from 2022 onwards almost everything is domaine, with the exception of the sensational Nuits and Chambolle village wines, where a small amount of négociant fruit supplements the domaine’s vineyards.

The past few vintages have seen the quality explode here, and we feel extremely lucky to have taken a position when we did (we first bought the 2020 vintage). Maxime is making some very serious wines, with density and precision, and lots of soul. It’s hard to describe it as still under-the-radar, as the secret is well and truly out now. So make haste.

Domaine Boris Champy

Boris Champy has spent the past five years reinventing himself. He has transformed himself from a Dominus/Louis Latour/Clos des Lambrays company man into canny Hautes-Côtes vigneron at the vanguard of biodynamic farming, putting his name on the line in the region’s frontier region.

In 2019 he bought a domaine from maverick biodynamic pioneer, Didier Montchovet, in the pretty but sleepy village of Nantoux. The domaine had been biodynamically farmed for over 40 years, visited by the likes of Anne-Claude Leflaive, Lalou Bize-Leroy and Aubert de Villaine, who sought out Montchovet for guidance on the potential of biodynamics.

Boris has continued that fastidious work in the vineyards and spent the past few years transforming the winemaking. His first vintage was an early hit, offering brilliant value for money and joyful, juicy wines. It went on to receive critical acclaim from Neal Martin, who said it was his “original parcels in the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune that frankly rewrote everything I thought possible. It is no exaggeration or hyperbole to say that they are equal to many Premier Crus.”

The 2023s continue to see Boris impress: always experimenting, while at the same time making a set of modern, sleek Burgundies that far outpace their humble appellation. All his wines include the elevation (in metres) of each parcel on their labels. The cooling influence of his sites pays off during periods of intense heat (such as the harvest of 2023), and all the 2023s come in at around 13% alcohol. Fresh, elegant, complex, finessed, harmonious, clear identity of terroir - don’t miss out!

Les Horées

Les Horées has been a runaway success since the release of Catharina Sadde’s first vintage, 2019. In the intervening years there has been no grower I’ve received more questions and requests about. It’s official: this is hot property.

The outstanding career path that led to this German former chef establishing her own domaine/négociant saw the name register early interest with Burgundy enthusiasts. Domaines de la Romanée-Conti, Comte Armand, Marquis d’Angerville, and Cécile Tremblay are but some of the places Catharina has worked at in the previous decade, whilst bringing up a young family with her Burgundian husband in Beaune. With interest piqued, demand soared.

The business, which is part domaine, part négociant, quickly outgrew its rented, charming but too-small premises Pommard, and a few years ago moved into more spacious cellars in Beaune. Her enthusiasm for biodynamic farming and low-intervention winemaking remain unwavering and this set of 2023s shines with an elegant, ethereal magnetism. 2023 sees the introduction of some new cuvées to the range.

Domaine Bonneau du Martray

In 2017 this famous domaine was sold by long-time owners, the Bault de la Morinière family, to American businessman Stanley Kroenke, whose other wine estates include Screaming Eagle in Napa. It is one of the most well-known biodynamic estates in Burgundy, and the future looks very bright under the management of Thibault Jacquet, who has seamlessly carried on the impeccable work that Jean-Charles le Bault de la Morinière before him. For the past few years, 2.8 of their 9.5 hectares have been leased to their friends, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.

In conjunction with its close relationship with Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Bonneau du Martray will now release its 2022s at the same time, in spring 2025.

All wines on allocation. Late release: 2022 released in Spring 2025

Domaine Comte Armand

This historic domaine has been a defining name in Pommard for generations. However, in recent years, under the stewardship of régisseur Paul Zinetti, it has moved up the ranks, finding itself amongst the handful of top red producers in the Côte de Beaune. This reputation has been won through intuitive winemaking and dedication to organic farming.

Gentle extraction, long maceration, well-judged new oak, and extended élévages make for some of the finest reds in the region. Recent vintages have seen the old vines of their superb monopole, Clos des Epeneaux, fulfil their potential for elegant power. They also produce an interesting range of reds from neighbouring villages, plus a particularly lovely Aligoté.

Paul mentioned how happy he is with this in 2023 and how tricky it was to get the balance right in what were difficult harvest conditions - he has more than succeeded - there is a quiet confidence about the wines this year and no wonder.

These 2023s are impressively balanced, elegant wines. The whole range offers terrific nuance and interest.

2023 also sees the first release of their deliciously joyful set of negociant wines.

Domaine Violot-Guillemard

Joannès Violot-Guillemard is one of a clutch of exciting young growers in Pommard bent on changing the outdated image of the village. His father, Thierry, brought the domaine to fame, with his elegant, refined and pure Pommards, which have been certified organic since 1995. His son, Joannès, has been in charge since the 2019 vintage, and is taking things to the next level. With 22 different AOCs across 8 hectares, he’s got his work cut out, but he seems to be throwing himself into it with a determination and vision far beyond his years. He confers a lot with his friends in the Côte de Nuits, Nicolas Faure and Charles Lachaux, about vinification, and has moved from the 30% maximum whole-bunch his father used, up to 100% in many wines in 2023. He has also started to use a proportion of ceramic vessels for fermentation and ageing in 2023.

These are wines that show a young winemaker in full command. They are a transparent and eloquent expression of each site, continuing the style of his father, but with extra definition and refinement. He says he loves the wines of Cécile Tremblay, and I can see some of her style emulated here.

Domaine Louis Boillot et Fils

Louis inherited vineyards in Volnay, as well as a few in the Côte de Nuits, from his father. For many years he has made the wines at the cellar he shares with his partner, Ghislaine Barthod, in Chambolle-Musigny. Their son, Clément, joined them both a few years ago, and has become a driving force behind both domaines. Recently, both parents have begun taking a step back, letting Clément grow as a winemaker and exercise his considerable talent across their magical array of vineyards. Nevertheless, a visit to the domaine is usually hosted by all three and is never short of entertainment.

Clément, like Louis, likes to pick early to preserve freshness. They share ripe but fresh tannins, giving them a wonderful aerial, textural lift.

Domaine Michel Lafarge

Lafarge is the defining name of Volnay. The family’s deep, damp cellars, with an impressive cushioning of mould on their walls, house these paradigm Volnays of timeless appeal. When Michel Lafarge, one of the greatest winemakers in modern Burgundy history, passed away in January 2020 at the age of 91, there was an outpouring of respect from all over the wine world, particularly from his fellow Burgundians.

The domaine has been run for many years by his son, Frédéric, and more recently, granddaughter, Clothilde. The wines of this address are deliciously fine-boned, discreet and tender-fruited, and made in a style that will never go out of fashion. They are also some of the longest-lived wines you’ll find in Burgundy.

Some wines on allocation

Domaine François Buffet

Volnay is a hallowed name, whose romantic wines have seen steep price increases over the past decade. So it is with genuine delight, if not a little surprise, that a few years ago we added a domaine that not only offers an embarrassment of riches from Volnay and around, but also makes some of the genuinely best-value red Burgundy you’ll find.

Marc-Olivier Buffet is almost always to be found in a pair of shorts, no matter the temperature. The cellars of Volnay are particularly damp, and Marc-Olivier’s family cellars are home to Lafarge-levels of mould. The wines he’s been making here in recent years have stolen the show when it comes to the Burgfest blind tasting, kicking in to touch far grander, and pricier, neighbours. Yet Marc-Olivier’s wines remain astonishingly good value for money. They show all the elegance and floral depth we yearn for in Volnay. His 2023s are pure, silky and very fine.

It will probably take a decade for this name to earn the kudos it deserves. But don’t let that hold you back. In fact, dive in right now. You’ll look back on these as the bargains of your cellar in years to come.

Domaine Ballot-Millot

Charles Ballot has been running his family domaine in Meursault since 2000, and in the past decade in particular, has driven quality to great heights. He is the 17th generation of his family to live and work in Burgundy. It might seem hard for someone in that position to carve out their own distinctive name, but Charles has done just that. He works according to the lunar cycle in the cellar, and uses a minimal amount of new oak, always searching for terroir expression. He is also one of the few winemakers who has addressed the issue of premature oxidation head-on, not afraid to talk about the ongoing changes he is making to address the issue. He likes to bathe the juice in plenty of oxygen at pressing, and has fine-tuned his levels of sulphur dioxide so that they are low, but the wines are well-protected against premox.

He says 2023 is a top quality vintage, clearly registering differences in terroir. Nuanced, balanced and full of fresh, concentrated fruit, the wines we tasted with him back that up: a very complete set of exquisite Meursaults from a highly accomplished grower.

Some wines on allocation

Domaine Michel Bouzereau

Jean-Baptiste Bouzereau has an amazing notebook. The notes it contains (on every wine) were started by his father, Michel, in 1982. It’s almost full now, and he jokes, perhaps it’s time to retire.

Luckily, this is said in jest. What a relief, as Jean-Baptiste is on a winning streak at the moment. He’s been working at the domaine since the 1980s, spending 10 years alongside his father, Michel, who at one time held the prestigious post of President of the Burgundy Growers' Union (meticulous note-taking was maintained even during this tenure). Though the domaine is not certified, Jean-Baptiste works organically in the vineyards, and follows the lunar cycle in the cellar, paying attention to when best to rack, when best to bottle. But, tellingly, he says, with a twinkle in his eye, the most important day for any wine is the day you open it. This is a man who loves making wines to be enjoyed. There is nothing pretentious here, and as a result, the wines are full of depth and balance - including a particularly good village Meursault - and are an utter joy, no matter what day you open them. Jean-Baptiste describes his set of 2023s as pleasurable and elegant with perfect balance.

Domaine des Comtes Lafon

The domaine is one of the most sought-after names in Burgundy, and its wines are celebrated for their brilliance and longevity. These Meursaults and Volnays are what define Burgundy for many.

For many years the domaine was led by the talented and charismatic Dominique Lafon. The past few vintages have seen him hand over the reins to the next generation: daughter Léa and nephew Pierre, with the 2021 vintage seeing the three of them working together in a seamless continuation of the famous Lafon style.

All wines on allocation. Late release: 2022

Patrick Javillier

Marion Javillier is as affable as her father, Patrick, whose jolly demeanour and food-friendly wines had earned him an enthusiastic following in the UK. Patrick is now retired, but is ever on hand to advise Marion, and son-in-law, Emmanuel, who now run the estate.

You’ll find an impressive array of Meursault village sites here. These Meursaults are bookended by a brilliant value Bourgogne Blanc and the jewel in the crown: Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru. The wines are generous and drink well from youth. This is an ever-reliable address for appealing and rewarding Chardonnay. 2023 is another huge success here. Marion loves this vintage for the clarity of individual terroir and its mature yet fresh structure.

Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot

The domaine’s cellars are in Pommard, but the heart of the domaine lies in its staggering clutch of Puligny vineyards. Jean-Marc is the grandson of one of Puligny’s greatest growers: Etienne Sauzet. Today, it’s his daughter, Lydie, and her husband, François Alzingre, who run this dynamic, enterprising family estate. And though they have expanded operations into the Mâcon, Côte Chalonnaise, and Languedoc, it is their Puligny portfolio that remains the most interesting part of their business.

They bottle early, and the wines drink well from the off. 2023 at this address is a vintage characterised by the interplay of freshness and richness which, with Puligny’s naturally fine-boned frame, make for an impressive combination.

Maison Olivier Leflaive Frères

Lay & Wheeler has worked with Olivier Leflaive since the 1980s, since the beginning of recently-retired winemaker Franck Grux’s tenure at this highly respected domaine/négociant. In that time the wines of Olivier Leflaive have gathered a huge and well-deserved following, with interest ramping up in the past few years. 2022 marked the handing over of the baton from Franck, after 33 vintages, to his successor, Solène Panigai. The pair vinified the 2022s together, the penultimate vintage of Franck’s long and distinguished career, with Solène taking over the helm for the 2023 vintage - a vintage she praises for its "friendliness" and likens to 2018 in style.

The house style has a certain individual flair to it – plenty of lifted toasty oak and vibrant, detailed fruit – but the wines are also notable for their universal appeal. This is quintessential white Burgundy as we all imagine it.

Domaine Bruno Colin

The various branches of the Colin family own large parts of Chassagne-Montrachet and St-Aubin, with many of the finest plots to their names. Bruno is part of the Colin-Deléger side of the family, and learned everything about making wine from his father, Michel, who is now retired (and whose domaine, Colin-Deléger, no longer exists).

Since inheriting his share of the family vineyards in 2003, Bruno has built up an impressive domaine of his own, vinifying the wines in his father’s beautiful old cellars in the centre of Chassagne-Montrachet, and more recently, in a brand new high-tech winery opposite the church. His wines encapsulate the sunny opulence of the year with the fresh tension derived from his impressive terroirs. His 2023s are generous yet light-footed, with ample stone fruit depth and mineral freshness.

Some wines on allocation

Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard

Céline Fontaine has blossomed into a dextrous, thoughtful, and skilled vigneronne over the past few years as she has stepped into the leading role at her family domaine. The Fontaine family have been in the village of Chassagne-Montrachet for generations, and she has many branches of cousins with their own domaines in the village. Her domaine was established in 1985 by her parents, Richard Fontaine and Laurence Gagnard, when Richard left the army and took up his four hectare share of family vineyards. Céline’s parents bought well during the 1980s and 1990s, and the domaine now stands at 12 hectares across 22 appellations. Their fabulous array of Chassagne-Montrachet premiers crus makes them one of the defining names of the village.

Céline is thrilled with the superb, plentiful, and classical set of 2023s in the cellar, highlighting the importance of her decision to pick early to retain freshness. In fact, I’ve never seen her more relaxed or confident with a new vintage than she is with the 2023s.

Some wines on allocation

Alex Moreau

In 2021 Alex and Benoît Moreau divided their family estate, Domaine Bernard Moreau et fils, between them. They had run it together since 1999, and in that time took this Chassagne address from one loved by a few insiders to one that challenged the region’s best, with a following to match.

It’s often sad when family estates are broken up, and the past few years have certainly been a difficult period for the brothers Moreau. But out of the division, a new and more confident Alex has emerged.

He has remained resident in the original family cellars in Chassagne-Montrachet and it is clear he has flourished in his newfound independence making 2023s that set the bar high with their textural cohesion and balance. His fans will no doubt eagerly follow him into this new chapter.

Some wines on allocation

Domaine Paul Pillot

Brother and sister Thierry and Christelle Pillot are making some of the defining and most sought-after wines in the village. The domaine was established by their great-grandfather in 1900, but it is this fourth generation who have really taken it up the leaderboard. The wines now enjoy insatiable demand. Thierry handles his fruit with the utmost respect, keeps as much of the rich sediment (the “bourb”) in contact with the wine as it ferments, applies very little new oak, and uses the tool of time to make what might just be the best wines coming out of the village at the moment. He’s extending élevage even further with his 2023s, and has subsequently decided to release them on the market a little later, taking a small step back from the January en primeur rush.

All wines on allocation. Late release: 2023 in Spring 2025

Domaine Jean-Claude Bachelet et Fils

Since adding the wines of Jean-Baptiste and Benoît Bachelet to our list a few years ago, no bottle has remained available for longer than a day or two, so well-thought of and popular are their wines. If you’re not quick, you’ll miss them. And it’s well worth being quick: they are exquisite in 2023.

The domaine is just under 10 hectares, and practices organic and biodynamic farming, for which it is currently gaining certification. The holdings centre on their home village of St-Aubin, with some excellent parcels in Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet. They have lots of old vines, including various parcels that were planted in 1927, and produce some of the southern Côte de Beaune’s most scintillating and concentrated wines.

Jean-Baptiste likes to keep the wines in barrel over two winters, which is a relatively long élevage in this part of the world, where most wines are bottled after one. The wines show best after a few years in bottle, so my advice is to tuck them away for another couple of winters yourself, and reap the rewards.

Some wines on allocation

Domaine Marc Colin

The southern end of the Côte de Beaune is not short of Colins. Domaine Marc Colin is run by Damien and Caroline Colin, siblings of Pierre-Yves and Joseph, who have both now established their own domaines. Damien and Caroline still retain the lion’s share of the original family holdings, with a significant position across St-Aubin, Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet.

The wines are pure, characterful, and markedly reliable - a word not always applicable to white Burgundy. But year in, year out, Damien makes wines that show brilliant drive in their youth and age with elegance. He looks for freshness rather than richness in his wines, and has moved away from cultivating very low yields.

The 2023s follow the now established pattern of longer élevage (two winters in barrel), less new oak, no fining, no bâtonnage, with Damien generally doing everything to preserve the natural expression of each site.

Damien describes his 2023s as “classique, bourguignon, et gourmand”. They were simply put, one of the best sets of wines we tasted in 2023.

Domaine Hubert Lamy

Olivier Lamy has earned a reputation as the most exciting and dedicated winemaker in the Côte de Beaune, and unquestionably the most checked name in St-Aubin. Fanatical dedication in the vineyards - which are fully organic - and painstaking attention to detail in the cellar are all just part of the job for Olivier. With his team of enthusiastic vineyard workers, they throw themselves into some of the most demanding work imaginable in the vines, many of which are planted at high density on steep hillsides inaccessible to farm machinery.

His whites are visceral and taught, with soaring acidity and pithy dry extract to support. They most certainly benefit from a little age before opening. His reds have improved significantly in the past few years, and now deserve as much attention as his captivating whites.

Demand for Olivier’s wines are at a record high and these are a highly prized addition to any cellar. They were released in summer 2024.

Late release: 2022 in summer 2024

Justin Girardin

Justin Girardin is an emerging talent in Santenay. He inherited a 17 hectare domaine from his father, Jacques, and has proven that once again, a change in generation can bring about a revolution in quality and style. His family name carries the weight of recognition: his uncle, Vincent, built one of the Côte be Beaune’s largest and most successful négociant businesses.

Over the past few years Justin has been quietly and carefully working away at things in the vineyard and cellar. He’s got boundless energy, and as well as running his domaine, is also a keen skier, hiker and runner, and in his spare time you’re likely to find him up some impossibly steep mountain. He is one of the most exciting new names in the village, and it goes without saying his wines are astonishingly good value for money. We were thrilled when he agreed to make our very own Lay & Wheeler Bourgogne Blanc - a cornerstone wine of the collection.

David Moreau

David Moreau is a hotly tipped name in Santenay. He’s a master of his craft, having put in the hard yards in his youth, going the distance with an oenology degree in Dijon, followed by training with some of the greatest names in wine: Château de Beaucastel in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Neudorf Vineyards in New Zealand, and Olivier Lamy and Domaine de la Romanée-Conti in Burgundy. Until 2004 David’s grandparents were running the family domaine. David took up the reins of this nine hectare estate in 2009 after buying out his cousins.

He is a perfectionist, and uncompromising in his quality control. If any fruit, any single barrel, or any cuvée don’t meet his high expectations, he does not hesitate to sell it off to eager négociants. Therefore, you can be assured the wines with his own label on them are only what he considers the very best. He prunes late, meaning his grapes never reach very high sugar levels (and thus alcohol), yet still achieve ripeness of tannins. These 2023s are supple and expressive, and they taste much, much smarter than their postcode.

Claudie Jobard

Claudie Jobard is a winemaker on the move. She’s spent the past few years putting her name on the map, and we jumped on board at just the right moment. Her brilliant value and characterful wines from Rully won our hearts over immediately. And what’s more, they offer refreshingly good value. Her prices remain incredibly reasonable, even though she suffered some of the heaviest losses of all our growers in 2021 (she lost 80% of her crop) and 2022 saw her conversion to organic viticulture finally official. It feels like there is no stopping her.

Her father worked as a pépiniériste (nurseryman) in the Côte Chalonnaise village of Demingy, selecting and cultivating young vines and grafting rootstocks. Claudie inherited his amazingly diverse and well-maintained vineyards in Rully, and combined these with vineyards inherited from her grandparents in and around Pommard to form her own domaine a few years ago. In 2023, we were utterly charmed by these bright, balanced, expressive wines from one of the most dynamic new names in the region.

Héritiers du Comte Lafon

In 1999 one of Meursault’s greatest winemakers, Dominique Lafon, turned his attention south, to the Mâconnais. He believed – and still believes today – that some of Burgundy’s finest and most nuanced terroirs are found here. A few years ago I jumped in the car and whizzed five minutes from the winery in Milly-Lamartine to visit Le Monsard in Bussières with him – a prime plot with a commanding view of the Roches de Vergisson and Solutré. He showed me how the land ripples with different soil types, manifest in the contouring of vineyards that are stretched like lace work across the hills.

He bought early, and he bought well here, long before the trend for expansions in the Mâconnais were à la mode amongst those in the Côte d’Or. Today this domaine consistently produces some of the region’s best wines and the next generation, Léa and Pierre Lafon, are taking it forward with terrific energy, following Dominique’s retirement.

The wines are made in the same spirit as the Meursault domaine but sold at a fraction of the price. These 2023s are a testament to the visionary impulses of Dominique Lafon and a beacon shining the light for the future path of the Lafon family, and the region.

Domaine Marcel Couturier

Marcel’s career as a winemaker was certainly not marked out from birth. His family owned a few vines, but wine was never the family business. That he has grown into a vigneron with such a strong identity, and with such a clear vision of what he wants his wines to encapsulate, is a refreshing reminder that determination and an enthusiastic can-do attitude really can result in a delicious outcome. Today his children Cladie and Auxence join their father in driving the family business forward, and 2022 sees the domaine become certified biodynamic.

The Couturier wines always show the character of the vintage with great clarity. The 2023s are fresh and joyful, incisive and pure. The wines are brimming with character, with fresh acidity slicing through plump stone fruit. This is a source of great value white Burgundy.

Château de Fuissé

While the Mâconnais has seen a recent influx of winemakers from the Côte de Beaune in search of new challenges and more affordable land, there are some producers with a considerably longer history in the region. Among them, one name stands out: Château de Fuissé. It was bought by the Vincent family in 1862 (just eight years after Lay & Wheeler was founded). Since 2003, it has been the fifth generation of Vincents, Antoine, at the helm, with his brother-in-law Philip Tuinder, previously of Olivier Leflaive. They offer remarkable value across the range, which draws from 42 hectares, 25 of which are within Pouilly-Fuissé, including the premier cru monopole, Le Clos. In 2023, their wines are harmonious and brilliantly made, with regional typicity and well-pitched weight.

Jean-Claude Lapalu

Jean-Claude is part of the new-wave of natural winemakers in Beaujolais. And although he adopts low-or-no-sulphur-dioxide and minimal-intervention winemaking, his wines are as high quality and nuanced as any.

His vineyards are mostly planted on south-facing decomposed granite slopes, and some cuvées have shown the stresses of heat in some recent vintages, like 2020. But 2023 largely sees him produce a fluent and balanced set of wines that all come in at around 13% alcohol; it’s hard to reconcile these with a warm vintage, they feel so fresh and alive.

Guy Breton

The first thing you learn on meeting this rugged-looking, wire-haired winemaker with a twinkle in his eye is that no one calls him Guy. Instead, he goes by ‘P’tit Max’: a diminutive moniker referencing his father that has stuck since childhood. He rose to fame as one of the ‘gang of four’, as legendary US importer Kermit Lynch dubbed them: a group of low-sulphur winemakers in Beaujolais, including P’tit Max’s mentor, Marcel Lapierre.

He likes to pick early, and has many old vine parcels at high elevations. He seeks freshness in his wines, and steers away from too much tannin extraction in the cellar, a tactic that works wonders in a warmer year like 2023. He might be slightly wild looking, and his wines might fall under the ‘natural wine’ umbrella, but P’tit Max is a progressive, thoughtful winemaker, who switched back to a state-of-the-art pneumatic press a few years ago to guard against any oxidation in his wines. He dislikes the influence of new oak, but the old barrels he does use are of the highest order - ex-Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, no less. These 2022s are full of life, with expressive aromatic bouquets, and bright, refreshing palates. They are best enjoyed slightly chilled.

Louis Boillot

Louis Boillot is most usually found in Chambolle-Musigny, in the cellars he shares with his partner Ghislaine Barthod, and now son, Clément, who has joined them both. It’s amazing to think that it’s already been ten years since the father and son pair branched out with a small domaine in Beaujolais as well. Clément took the project on and has driven it forward with great enthusiasm and considerable ambition. Both Louis and Clément’s philosophy is to make Beaujolais with the same skill and know-how they have from their Côte-d'Or domaines.

That is, the fruit is mostly destemmed and the wines are raised in 228l French oak barrels. The difference is the terroir - in Moulin-à-Vent the vines thrive in the granitic soil, distinctly different from the Côte-d'Or’s limestone. And grape variety, of course: here, it’s Gamay in the driving seat.