2020 Côte de Nuits

Hautes-Côtes de Nuits might be the most humble appellation in Aurélien’s portfolio, but this wine is also his flagship, and we think, one of his best. It offers outstanding value for money. It is bursting with fresh berry charm: think crushed raspberries and wild strawberries. The tannins are so silky that they slip across the palate, making it a smooth and juicy mouthful. This will drink well from early on, so don’t be afraid to start drinking as soon as it arrives.

Fixin doesn’t have any grand crus, but in Amélie’s eyes, this is a pretty close estimation. It has very shallow soils, and the vines, now aged 30-80 years old, dig deep. 60% whole bunch (higher than usual) brings a floral, spiced fruit. This is an incredibly successful 2020.

In Aux Allots we find the domaine’s oldest vines, though how old precisely is unknown. The family bought the vineyard which sits on the Vosne-Romaéee side of the village in 1969. It had been planted long before then, although the exact date has been lost to history. This wine has an enthralling depth of berry fruit, with a minty lift on the nose, and just a hint of licorice adding a further dimension. Textural and complex, this is an outstanding Nuits-St-Georges.

The domaine has an impressive 10 hectares in their home village of Marsannay. They bottle five separate cuvées, including the wonderful Grasses Têtes, which sits at the southern end of the commune, on the slope that rises up behind the village. Its quirky name (meaning “fat heads”) refers to the large rocks that show through the surface of the clay soil. It is typically the most structured and powerful of the Clair Marsannays, and in 2020 it was initially muscular and athletic, reminding me of Gevrey-Chambertin when tasted from barrel. A recent revisit (spring 2024) to this wine now in bottle reminded me how Pinot Noir has a remarkable ability to surprise. The powdery tannins and fleshy, energetic red-fruit freshness have knitted together seamlessly, and the wine is now an absolute joy. It undeniably retains the structure to age, and tastes easily twice the price it is. This is quintessential Marsannay, and quintessential Clair, and a hot contender for promotion to premier cru status.

This remarkable village lieu-dit sits directly above Bonnes Mares, Clos de Tart, and Clos des Lambrays. The Clair parcel is situated just above their Bonnes Mares parcel. It’s hard to believe this isn’t a premier cru. Up here there is virtually no top soil at all, and the vines plunge straight into the limestone bedrock. Arthur uses up to 30% whole bunch on the young vine parcel, which he vinifies separately from the older vines, blending later to build layers of complexity. It has a summer hedgerow aroma - blackberries and wild strawberries - with tightly-wound tannins giving the palate a nervous energy. Truly excellent.

Pure, incredibly densely concentrated with crystalline fruit, and silky, satin-like tannins. This is wonderfully long, and, although a mere village wine, carries the calibre of its domaine on full display.

Mazis is the most northern of the Gevrey grands crus, and is renowned for making some of the most seductive wines amongst them. The Faiveley plot benefits from some very old vines, some of which were planted in 1930. This is sleek and seductive, with a rich, detailed, luxurious feel about it.

As the name suggests, this is situated in the heart of Chambolle-Musigny. At 0.5 hectares, it is the Felettigs’ largest single parcel. There’s lots of limestone in the soil here, and the 2020 is agile and bright, with juicy flow, and floral detail.

The domaine has vines in two plots on either side of Nuits: Les Chariots in the south and Aux Lavières in the north. There is a Chambolle signature woven through the Nuits fruit here; the wine has nice firm structure yet remains silky overall.

This tiny premier cru is set in a dip that was once a quarry (as the name alludes to). Full of black cherries, with a creamy texture and silky length. Structured and complex.

This wine is exclusive to Lay & Wheeler in the UK. It is a steep site that sits right up against Aux Boudots on the Vosne side of the appellation. It has the finesse of Vosne and the power of Nuits - a pretty appealing combination. Some of the very old vines were recently replaced, so the production of this site is strictly limited at the moment.

Les Suchots is one of Vosne’s most substantial premiers crus, famous for producing particularly long-lived wines. This shows brilliantly crystalline Pinot fruit - so pure, red fruited and ethereal. It’s an uncommon find in 2020 which can often feel darker than that. Bravo to Nicole for capturing this in an outstandingly elegant wine.

Nicole has three parcels within this grand cru, one in the northwest corner (where everyone wants to be) tucked up next to Musigny. The three add complexity and layers to the finished wine. This is a highly complete and poised wine in 2020. Spiced, fruit-packed, with density and length, and satin-like tannins.

This comes from just one parcel in Vosne-Romanée, planted in 1955. The wines are yielding such low volumes that the domaine is in the process of replanting, uprooting one quarter of the parcel at a time. The yield in 2020, like 2019, was just 20 hl/ha, and the result is a staggeringly concentrated Bourgogne Rouge. It has a sweet density and deep, structured fruit, with profound persistence for a Bourgogne. It will easily age for a decade, which is not something you can say of every Bourgogne.

This well-positioned vineyard on the Vosne side of the appellation sits on the slope, enjoying plenty of sunshine and the cooling ventilation of a constant breeze, keeping the fruit in excellent health during the growing season. The vineyard is on the border with Vosne-Romanée and the wine shows so much of its neighbour’s finesse as well as concentration, with Nuits’ bite and grip.

This might just be the best village Vosne out there. It comes from four parcels which host a variety of vine ages. The relatively high proportion of younger vines gives this cuvée an explosive, juicy structure. It is powerful and beautiful with silky tannins, and fresh high-acid fruit.

This wonderful parcel sits just beneath the cluster of houses in the village centre. It makes such a sweet and long wine in 2020, with a brilliantly deep fruit core. Perfumed and spiced, with great tension.

This domaine wine comes from parcels around Maxime’s home village. There’s plenty of red fruit energy woven through the velvet-like tannins.

This has a dark cherry fruit core, with a density and structure that should ensure a long drinking window for this village wine. The tannins are expertly knit together.

The family’s garden extends out into the Chaumes vineyard, in the centre of the village. Their terrace has a great view of it, which is where Maxime likes to open an older vintage or two when you visit. This 2019 is supremely silky and supple, with deep berry fruit. It couldn’t be anything other than top class Vosne.

This shows the delicious combination of grand cru structure and length, with the sweet fruit note of morello cherry. This is Maxime at the top of his game.

This wonderful vineyard in Vosne-Romanée demands time. The density and sophistication of these layers will do well with a few years to unfurl. This will be wonderful.

Maxime has made an outstanding Boudots in 2019. It feels more Vosne than Nuits with its dark cherry and raspberry density. Sensational structure.

Gevrey provides the structure and savoury stature, Maxime provides the silky texture and long, poised finish.