2019 Mâcon & Côte Chalonnaise

This is a brilliant blend of the appellation, drawn from over 50 separate parcels, giving a very complete and complex portrait of the region. About half comes from Fuissé’s typically clay soil, with the rest from limestone and sandy schist soils. 95% of the wine is aged in oak, with 15% in new oak. There is a hazelnut toastiness on the nose, and the bright balance of mandarin orange on the palate. This is the flagship wine of the estate, and performs every year. In 2019 it is, as ever, a highlight.

From next vintage, Ch de Fuissé will finally be able to put ‘premier cru’ on the label of this wine. Le Clos, a 2.7 hectare monopole vineyard that lies just next to the Château, has been selected as one of the finest parcels in the appellation and deserving of this historic upgrade. The oldest vines here were planted in 1929, and the youngest in 1984. There is such a chiselled intensity in this wine, with smoky tension, and a subtle anise lift on the nose. The palate is precise, energetic and persistent. It is no surprise this will be upgraded to premier cru.

Chardonnay here refers to the village, rather than the variety. Clos de la Crochette is a charming walled vineyard that Dominique bought in 2003. After a little investigation he discovered it is one of the most historic sites in all of Burgundy, first planted by the monks of Cluny (c.900 AD). This has beautiful tension and energy, it comes as little surprise this spot has been a favourite for winegrowers through the centuries.

The pinnacle of the Lafon wines in the Macon. It would give many far pricier wines from the Côte d'Or a run for their money. It has so much pop and zing in 2019. The later ripening terroir produces a succelence and ripeness twinned with delicious freshness. Excellent.