2020 Mâcon & Côte Chalonnaise

This is a brilliant blend of the appellation, drawn from over 50 separate parcels, 4 of which are now actually premiers crus but produced in too small volumes to be bottled separately. This all makes for a very complete and complex portrait of the region. About half the parcels are on Fuissé’s typically clay soil, with the rest on limestone and sandy schist soils. 75% of the wine is aged in oak, with 10% of that new oak. The wine has a classic white peach aroma, with a smooth, silky body, and vibrant freshness. This is the flagship wine of the estate, and performs every year.

After many years, Pouilly-Fuissé has finally been recognised with premiers crus. Château de Fuissé are delighted and proud that their superb monopole vineyard that sits just next to the historic château has been recognised with this classification. It is a 2.7 hectare vineyard, home to many old vines, some of which were planted as far back as 1929. Indeed, the youngest vines you’ll find here are from 1984. This is a truly great outing for Le Clos, and a fittingly brilliant rendition for its premier cru debut. Thoroughly well deserved.

This is found in the south-east of the appellation, near Mercurey. It has an amplitude of fruit that plays off so well against the pink grapefruit twist of bitterness, making this feel both satisfyingly weighted and deliciously fresh.

This parcel of young vines (around 15 years old) lies right next to Marcel’s house. He says it’s a wine to open and enjoy young. Given what good value it is you certainly can get stuck in. It has a bright and fruity character, with the vintage’s wonderful natural freshness.

This is the combination of three parcels in the south of the appellation from one lieu-dit. The vines are now over 75 years old on average, and the wine they make is one of the most juicy and delicious reds you can find at this level. It has a well-balanced body, and a long, fine finish.

Chardonnay here refers to the village, rather than the variety. Clos de la Crochette is a charming walled vineyard that Dominique bought in 2003. After a little investigation he discovered it is one of the most historic sites in all of Burgundy, first planted by the monks of Cluny (c.900 AD). The energy and tension of the 2020 emphatically demonstrates why this has been a favourite spot with winegrowers through the centuries.

This is the pinnacle of the Lafon wines in the Mâconnais, or as Dominique would put it, the ‘Porusots’ of the Mâcon domaine. That is to say: crystalline and pure, with a power, presence and precision you might expect from a much grander appellation in the Côte d'Or.