2020 Mâcon & Côte Chalonnaise

In spite of a decent sized harvest in 2020 in the region, because of the extremely small vintages either side of it, this wine’s astonishing value and huge popularity mean that only a small amount of the 2020 will be released en primeur, so you’ll need to move quickly to secure some. It comes from three parcels, two of which come from the limestone soils near the distinctive Solutré rock, and the third from a richer clay site near Pouilly. It has been vinified in stainless steel only and has great freshness and lovely balance in 2020.

This is a brilliant blend of the appellation, drawn from over 50 separate parcels, 4 of which are now actually premiers crus but produced in too small volumes to be bottled separately. This all makes for a very complete and complex portrait of the region. About half the parcels are on Fuissé’s typically clay soil, with the rest on limestone and sandy schist soils. 75% of the wine is aged in oak, with 10% of that new oak. The wine has a classic white peach aroma, with a smooth, silky body, and vibrant freshness. This is the flagship wine of the estate, and performs every year.

Claudie’s father, in his days of running a plant nursery with access to a huge range of plant material, planted seven different clones of Pinot Noir in this 2.5 hectare site. Now at 45 years old, this diversity, twinned with the quality of vineyard husbandry, means the vineyard is thriving. The different clones call for pruning and harvesting at different times, but it’s an effort worth making, as the wine is texturally sophisticated, juicy, and full of Pinot nuance. So balanced and extremely drinkable.

This parcel of young vines (around 15 years old) lies right next to Marcel’s house. He says it’s a wine to open and enjoy young. Given what good value it is you certainly can get stuck in. It has a bright and fruity character, with the vintage’s wonderful natural freshness.

This is the combination of three parcels in the south of the appellation from one lieu-dit. The vines are now over 75 years old on average, and the wine they make is one of the most juicy and delicious reds you can find at this level. It has a well-balanced body, and a long, fine finish.

This is the pinnacle of the Lafon wines in the Mâconnais, or as Dominique would put it, the ‘Porusots’ of the Mâcon domaine. That is to say: crystalline and pure, with a power, presence and precision you might expect from a much grander appellation in the Côte d'Or.

In the south of the Mâconnais, near the cellar, is this tiny south-facing plot. Its red clay soils and steep incline make wine with a heady concentration. The plot is so small (less than a quarter of a hectare) it only makes enough for one foudre, but Dominique and Caroline insist it merits being bottled on its own rather than blended into a larger cuvée because it is, simply, that good every year. 2020 shows the wine’s typical tension and very slight bitterness – it is straight, serious, savoury, less fruity and open than some others, and more demanding of attention by the drinker. It’s what Dominique calls the Genevrières of the Mâconnais.

Chardonnay here refers to the village, rather than the variety. Clos de la Crochette is a charming walled vineyard that Dominique bought in 2003. After a little investigation he discovered it is one of the most historic sites in all of Burgundy, first planted by the monks of Cluny (c.900 AD). The energy and tension of the 2020 emphatically demonstrates why this has been a favourite spot with winegrowers through the centuries.