2020 Mâcon & Côte Chalonnaise

This is a brilliant blend of the appellation, drawn from over 50 separate parcels, 4 of which are now actually premiers crus but produced in too small volumes to be bottled separately. This all makes for a very complete and complex portrait of the region. About half the parcels are on Fuissé’s typically clay soil, with the rest on limestone and sandy schist soils. 75% of the wine is aged in oak, with 10% of that new oak. The wine has a classic white peach aroma, with a smooth, silky body, and vibrant freshness. This is the flagship wine of the estate, and performs every year.

Claudie’s father, in his days of running a plant nursery with access to a huge range of plant material, planted seven different clones of Pinot Noir in this 2.5 hectare site. Now at 45 years old, this diversity, twinned with the quality of vineyard husbandry, means the vineyard is thriving. The different clones call for pruning and harvesting at different times, but it’s an effort worth making, as the wine is texturally sophisticated, juicy, and full of Pinot nuance. So balanced and extremely drinkable.

This is found in the south-east of the appellation, near Mercurey. It has an amplitude of fruit that plays off so well against the pink grapefruit twist of bitterness, making this feel both satisfyingly weighted and deliciously fresh.

This parcel of young vines (around 15 years old) lies right next to Marcel’s house. He says it’s a wine to open and enjoy young. Given what good value it is you certainly can get stuck in. It has a bright and fruity character, with the vintage’s wonderful natural freshness.

This is the combination of three parcels in the south of the appellation from one lieu-dit. The vines are now over 75 years old on average, and the wine they make is one of the most juicy and delicious reds you can find at this level. It has a well-balanced body, and a long, fine finish.

This is the pinnacle of the Lafon wines in the Mâconnais, or as Dominique would put it, the ‘Porusots’ of the Mâcon domaine. That is to say: crystalline and pure, with a power, presence and precision you might expect from a much grander appellation in the Côte d'Or.

Chardonnay here refers to the village, rather than the variety. Clos de la Crochette is a charming walled vineyard that Dominique bought in 2003. After a little investigation he discovered it is one of the most historic sites in all of Burgundy, first planted by the monks of Cluny (c.900 AD). The energy and tension of the 2020 emphatically demonstrates why this has been a favourite spot with winegrowers through the centuries.