Beaujolais

From three different parcels with an average age of between 65-80 years this has been raised in 50% tank and 50% barrel. It is a medium bodied wine with pretty red cherry and strawberry fruit, a charming violet tinge and a slight grip to the fresh finish.

Just a little whole bunch is used here, and it works brilliantly. The Gamay shows all the structure and sophistication of the Boillots’ Côte d’Or Pinots, but with the juicy, pretty, peppery texture of Beaujolais. It’s got gorgeous blueberry fruit, and fine-grained tannins, thanks to the excellent granitic terroir.

This is low-intervention in the extreme: Jean-Claude doesn’t touch the tank during its 12-day maceration and fermentation. Combine this with zero sulphur and 100% whole bunch, and you’d be forgiven for assuming this would stray far onto the funky side of ‘natural’ wine. Yet it remains wonderfully poised. The vines for this cuvée are located just behind the winery and are his pride and joy. The 2023 has a very pretty nose with aromas of plum, cassis and pomegranate jumping from the glass. The palate is very fine and elegant in structure, fine-grained, slightly chalky tannins weave around the supple, concentrated, fresh, black cherry fruit. Long and sumptuous in the finish with a refreshing mineral note throughout.

This Beaujolais-Villages is as energetic and vibrant, fresh and juicy as you’d hope for from a glass of classic Bojo. At just 12.5% alcohol it shows no signs of the extreme heat at the end of the 2023 vintage. In fact, it has the peppery freshness and floral, graphite notes of a fresher vintage. This is thanks to the small amount of high-altitude fruit Jean-Claude buys in, which gives acidity and definition to the richer fruit of his own organically farmed, old vines. It’s undoubtedly a stand-out from Jean-Claude this year, and terrific value for money.

This 70 year old parcel of Gamay is situated near Jean-Claude’s cellar on granite soil with an east-facing aspect. The cuvée is made using carbonic maceration, and is everything we want from a Beajoulais to drink young. In 2023, its fresh, vibrant, juicy fruit has wonderful red cherry concentration on the palate leading to a lively, bright finish and a lovely fresh mineral and slightly spicy note through its length. Simply delicious.