Côte de Beaune

Amongst a strong lineup of Premiers Crus in David’s cellar, this is always our favourite. It comes from a parcel with a hard limestone bedrock, producing a wine that is marked by its surprising suppleness. In 2023 David used around 10-15% whole bunch – this is a wine marked by vibrancy and minerality. A tense core of red cherry fruit lifts to reveal a Pinot of real finesse with a saline finish.

Les Hâtes sits in the middle of the village, surrounded by Premiers Crus on well-draining red-tinged soil. It is an early-ripening terroir that makes for a floral, ethereal style of Pinot with lovely proportions. David uses around 10% whole bunches and aims to focus on the floral character as a natural expression of the site which David sees emerge every year. A compelling introduction to Santenay with bright, red berry fruits and a lick of blood orange on the juicy finsh.

Maranges is the final limit of the Côte d’Or, and a source of crunchy, great value reds, if you follow the right grower. This is actually a blend of village and premier cru fruit (from 1er Cru Clos Rousseau), which David declassifies to give his village Maranges more volume and quality. The name Gryphée is a type of fossilised mollusc found within the limestone soil. This year David used around 15% whole bunches which has given a little peppery lift to the charming dark cherry fruit tinged with crushed violets. Lithe and supple, this is a great buy.

The name of this cuvée refers to the winemaking technique which differs by using the vertical press: a type of press used from the middle ages until the 1960’s, when it was replaced by the horizontal press (mechanical and pneumatic). The vertical press marks the style of this wine, with bags of concentration and complexity. It comes from the “Montagne de Cras” plot in Nantoux. “Cras”, or “Crag” in Celtic, means pebbles and the soil is very varied, stony but also full of clay. The 4-hectare plot is made up of 3 hectares of vines and 1 hectare of a natural biodiversity area: scree slopes, hedges, orchards, limestone grasslands with numerous orchids and rare trees. A precise, intense nose of orange rind, honey, and white blossom, is followed by a taut, poised and dynamic palate with well-integrated oak. It is showing a touch of spice amongst the fresh, tropical fruit and is very persistent on the finish. Excellent.

New to our range for 2023, this comes from 2 parcels at the top of the hill near En Bignon, lying at 421 metres above sea-level. It is fermented in 500 and 600-litre barrels, and has a pure and open nose showing hints of white peach and honeysuckle. The palate is expertly balanced, slickly textural and focussed all the way through the slightly, spicy, saline finish. Wow.

This is a new addition to the list in 2023: we just couldn’t resist. It’s made from old vine Gamay grown on the steep slopes of Nantoux (true to its name, unlike many other Coteaux Bourguignons which are grown on the flat plains on the other side of the route nationale). It was vinified with 50% whole-bunch fruit, gently handled in the cellar with low extraction. Some of the vines are ninety-years-old, and the concentration and kick this gives to the wine is notable. It’s gorgeous: juicy, fruit-forward, and joyful. Don’t miss this little rocket.

Le Clou is a single vineyard in Nantoux sitting at a precise 377 metres elevation. Its soil is similar to Volnay, with chalky, rocky topsoil over limestone marl bedrock. 90% whole-bunch has been used to great effect here: it has a fine, elegant aroma of maraschino cherries and cinnamon spice, with silky tannins and impressive concentration on the poised finish. 100% 1 year old oak - this is the wine that Boris is making to try and elevate / demonstrate what he is doing in the Hautes-Côtes.

Le Clou is a single vineyard in Nantoux sitting at a precise 377 metres elevation. Its soil is similar to Volnay, with chalky, rocky topsoil over limestone marl bedrock. 90% whole-bunch has been used to great effect here: it has a fine, elegant aroma of maraschino cherries and cinnamon spice, with silky tannins and impressive concentration on the poised finish. 100% 1 year old oak - this is the wine that Boris is making to try and elevate / demonstrate what he is doing in the Hautes-Côtes.

The Bignon parcel has red clay soil, not dissimilar to that found in pockets of Pommard. It usually produces an easy-going, fruit-forward wine, but the excellent structure found in this 2023 is striking. It still has the signature smooth fruit, but with fine, lightly chalky tannins from well-handled 60% whole-bunch fruit. The 20% new oak rounds out the concentrated cherry character.

This comes from a blend of the domaine’s young vines with a small dash of extremely old vines, from multiple parcels scattered around the village of Nantoux. It has a crunchy acidity giving it a fresh profile, which is twinned with the rose petal and ripe raspberry character. Whole-bunch has been upped to 60% in 2023 giving it a spiced, graceful length on the finish.

A serious Bourgogne Blanc: it comes from parcels across Santenay and St-Aubin, ripe peach and lemony fruit on the mid-palate paves the way for a long finish. It is delicious and refreshing.

This is the most linear and precise of Bruno’s Premiers Crus, with a zippy line running through the palate. It is tightly mineral and intricate, and in fact, feels quite a lot like a Puligny, yet there is a depth and texture to the fruit that draws you back to Chassagne. Saline and enduring in the finish. Outstanding.

This is a fantastic example of village Chassagne, with attractive nectarine fruit character and an expressive, bright palate. It gets its intensity from the old vines (some are approaching 70 years) from nine parcels scattered across the village. A smattering of new oak gives it structure and support. Long and satisfying finish.

En Remilly sits at the meeting point of three villages: Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, and St-Aubin. The larger part of it falls within St-Aubin, with the tiny part on the Chassagne side enjoying a superb position - next to Chevalier-Montrachet and just above Le Montrachet. At 300m altitude, with very little topsoil, Bruno’s two parcels (one of which touches Chevalier-Montrachet) make a magnificent wine: concentrated, opulent, mineral and energetic, with a precision you only find in Chardonnay grown on limestone.

Matured in 600-litre demi-muids without batonnage, this new négoce cuvée is the epitome of balance. There’s plenty of pure, ripe yellow orchard fruit, a pretty texture and a mineral, fresh finish.

The grapes for this new négoce cuvée come from just south of the Montagne de Beaune, on the border with the forest. Energetic, and packed full of fresh yet ripe citrus fruit. This is joyous and offers excellent value.

This is a secret gem to know about. It’s made from a blend of young vine fruit and some incredible 95-year old Aligoté Doré grown in Meursault, whose tiny, golden berries are packed with vibrant flavours. The 2023 shows brilliant freshness, with verve and salinity. It’s one of our favourite whites from the region, and finds its way into our cellars every year.

100% de-stemmed fruit from Nolay, near Maranges goes into this tiny production new négoce cuvée. Light, bright, pretty with pure red fruit. This is delightful.

The grapes for this new négoce cuvée come from Saint-Sernin-du-Plain, next to Maranges. Vibrant, and packed full of pretty, floral red fruit with supple tannins. 40% whole bunch gives this a wonderful, spritely lift.

This gourmand, full-bodied and elegant wine is one of the sweet spots of the Comte Armand stable, with hints of cassis, sapid, black cherry and sweet spice. It is a blend of two vineyards in Auxey: 70% Les Bréterins and 30% Les Duresses. Bréterins is steep and well-draining, with limestone soils contributing savoury elegance; Duresses is clay-based and builds power and body in the wine. It has the structure for good ageing potential, though it is still fragrant and inviting in its youth. A standout in 2023.

Auxey-Duresses is a relatively unknown village of the Côte de Beaune, tucked up above Meursault, next to Monthelie, on the way to St-Romain. This anonymity is in spite of its association with Lalou Bize-Leroy. Comte Armand's vines - in lieu-dit Largillas - sit just above her Les Clous vines. Largillas gives the most spectacular views of the pretty village, and have an enviable mid-slope position for a village parcel. It is always one of the best value and most characterful reds on our list. In 2023 it has a nervous, vibrant energy, with brilliant concentration and a fresh and juicy body.

Les Frémiets sits on the border with Pommard, and the wine often shows the character of both villages. It is the most fine-boned, and restrained wine in the cellar this year, its charm derived from its elegant restraint. Its high proportion of old vines make a concentrated and deep wine. This is a polished, refined, and soulful Volnay. Another highlight in 2023.

This Volnay is so balanced and complete. Pillowy, gently spiced red fruit leads to a silky, aromatically complex palate, spiced through with fresh wild strawberry fruit. It is a blend of two parcels, Les Famines and Les Grands Champs, in the centre of the commune. There is a touch of sweetly-scented dry extract, making it both tender and mineral.

This is an important vineyard both in terms of its size (5.23 hectares) and its historical stock of 100+ year old vines. The concentration here, in 2023, is exquisite. It is another great example of the Clos and one of the finest we have tasted - another chance for Paul Zinetti, régisseur, to rewrite the old trope that Pommard is muscular and rustic only. Instead this is powerful, svelte, profound, and intense. It is truly one of the greatest vineyards of the Côte de Beaune.