Côte de Nuits

This is one of the parcels that Cyprien and his team farm organically all year round and harvest themselves, under the négociant label. It is an excellent village lieu-dit at the southern end of Vosne, which a number of growers choose to bottle separately. It shows lots of energy and power, with a bright length, with plenty in reserve.

This comes from various parcels the domaine owns around the village, mostly located on the Morey side of the village. It shows a certain austerity, mingled with Chambolle’s signature texture: silky, dense, and refined.

Cyprien makes two Bourgognes, and this is the one that comes from the domaine’s single parcel which lies just beyond the village boundary of Gevrey-Chambertin, but a stone’s throw from the village’s Grands Crus. It is a fairly serious Bourgogne, with an expressive, chewy core to it, offering up the density of Gevrey, with the open fruit to drink well from early on.

Cyprien makes two Bourgognes, and this is the one that comes from the domaine’s single parcel which lies just beyond the village boundary of Gevrey-Chambertin, but a stone’s throw from the village’s Grands Crus. It is a fairly serious Bourgogne, with an expressive, chewy core to it, offering up the density of Gevrey, with the open fruit to drink well from early on.

The domaine has an impressive 10 hectares in their home village of Marsannay. They bottle five separate cuvées, including the wonderful Grasses Têtes, which sits at the southern end of the commune, on the slope that rises up behind the village. Its quirky name (meaning “fat heads”) refers to the large rocks that show through the surface of the clay soil. It is typically the most structured and powerful of the Clair Marsannays, with the greatest tannic charge, recalling Gevrey-Chambertin. The 2023 has a fragrant and salty dynamism. This is quintessential Marsannay, and quintessential Clair, and a top contender for promotion to Premier Cru status.

This remarkable village lieu-dit sits directly above Clos de Tart, Clos des Lambrays, and Bonnes Mares, and the Clair parcel is an extension of their lauded Bonnes Mares plot. It’s hard to believe this isn’t a premier cru, really. Up here there is virtually no top soil at all, and the vines plunge straight into the limestone bedrock. The wine has abundant blackberry and wild strawberry aromas, tightly-wound tannins, and a fragrant energy.

This precious site was Bruno’s father’s favourite, and is now his son Arthur’s favourite too. It’s planted with the oldest vines of the domaine, which date back to 1902. Its east-facing amphitheatre-like form catches the sun’s rays, and the wine it produces is sappy, concentrated and complexly textured. There’s a clear density from the old vine fruit, and the energy of the vintage. In 2023, the nose has concentrated black cherries and wild strawberry and on the palate there is fine-grained, fluid tannins and a mineral finish. It’s sumptuous, spiced, and poised.

This clos is a monopole of the domaine found right at the centre point of Gevrey, next to Ruchottes-Chambertin. It always produces grapes with millerandage (small berries) and so the wine has an intense concentration and exquisite finesse. It’s all red-fruited power and mineral length, typical of senior Gevrey terroirs. The 2023 boasts an alluring nose of sappy black cherries, red currants, and on the palate there are silky supple tannins that add to the structure of bright acidity and textural finish.

Where the Bonnes Mares is muscular and persuasive, this is fragrant and fine, with a compelling thread of crystalline red fruit reaching to an astonishing finish. Clos de Bèze is a slightly steeper and warmer site than Chambertin next door, and the potential heights of complexity and concentration it can produce are remarkable.

This is a Bonnes Mares of distinction: it is the only part of the vineyard to fall within Morey-Saint-Denis (the rest is in Chambolle-Musigny). It is muscular, yet tender, with a deep and concentrated core. There is an unbelievable length on display here, with a finish that fans out across the palate.

Faiveley are the largest landowner in this fêted corner of Chambertin, with three parcels to their name. It is one of the consistently most complex wines in their range, and offers staggering ageing potential. In 2023, aromas of rose petal and sapid red berries combine leading to gorgeously, silky tannins, and a long, fine, spicy finish on the palate.

This vineyard has been a family monopole since 1874. It is the domaine's flagship wine and one of just two Burgundian Grands Crus to bear the name of its owner (Romanée-Conti being the other). This is a lifted and silky wine in 2023, with savoury spices wrapped around sapid red fruits, and a brilliant energy driving it all the way through to the finish. Simply superb.

Mazis is the most northern of the Gevrey Grands Crus, and is renowned for making some of the most seductive wines amongst them. The Faiveley plot benefits from some very old vines, some of which were planted in 1930. This is elegant and alluring, with a spicy, rich, lavishness about it.

This special cuvée comes from the oldest vines in Faiveley’s Clos de Bèze holding, and was first produced in 2011. The name is an homage to the family’s connection with the artist, Rodin, and the cuvée is only ever produced in tiny quantities. Powerful, deep, and dramatic. This will reward the patient.

Nicole has three parcels within this Grand Cru, one in the northwest corner (where everyone wants to be) tucked up next to Musigny. The three add complexity and layers to the finished wine. This is so lively with some dried herbs, white pepper and coffee grounds that lead to distinctly red berry fruit on the palate. The tannin is fine-grained with an athletic feel that promises a long life ahead.

Attractive nose showing a little pineapple, citrus and white fruits. Juicy on the palate, supple with a delicate mineral quality and a crisp finish. Easy-going style and delicious.

The Hautes-Côtes de Nuits is proving a popular spot for growers in Vosne who are looking for wines that are a little more forward, accessible, and with vibrant freshness, as is the case in this excellent example.

Maxime’s lightness of touch combined with Nuits-St-George’s naturally muscular style make for a compelling village wine. It has a dark cherry fruit core, with the density to ensure a long drinking window.

Unlike some Côteaux Bourguignons which are a blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir, this is 100% Gamay, from a parcel of very old vines that the Grivots inherited via the Jayers, one of whom was married to Etienne’s father. Etienne says that Henri Jayer made him promise to never, ever rip out these vines. He has kept his word, and it is now one of the wines that Etienne is most animated about in their whole cellar. Charming, earthy and brimming with bright dark cherry fruit, this is so easy to love.

This wine is made from a blend of thirteen different parcels across the village, and the result is a wonderfully complete and complex portrait of Vosne. This offers fruit and fragrance in equal measure with aromas of violets, and ripe cherry notes with hints of pomegranate. The texture is silky with a vibrant line of acidity.

Aux Lavières is tucked just beneath premier cru Aux Murgers, on the Vosne side of the appellation, and as a result it’s a major step up on your regular village cuvée. This wine opens with flavours of black cherry, violets with a creamy, caressing feel on the palate. The finish is very detailed with dark berry fruits and a little liquorice.

The Grivots have a substantial 1.86-hectare single parcel in Clos de Vougeot, which is easy to spot, with its magnificent gate on the roadside. The wine is finely woven, detailed and poised, with both power and length. Violets, incense, red cherry fruit mingle on the palate with a charm that is irresistible right now but a structure that promises to repay cellaring.

The clay soils on the south side of Nuits result in a wine with a little more intensity and cherry fruit that wraps across the palate. There is a supple feel to the tannins here with real energy and freshness to match. The finish is finely detailed with subtle notes of wild herbs and liquorice root.