Macon/Côte Chalonnaise 2021: New Releases

This is a brilliant blend of the appellation, drawn from over 50 separate parcels, 4 of which are now actually premiers crus but produced in too small volumes to be bottled separately. In 2021 this includes Brûlés as only 2hl was produced. This all makes for a very complete and complex portrait of the region. About half the parcels are on Fuissé’s typically clay soil, with the rest on limestone and sandy schist soils. 50% of the wine is aged in oak, a small proportion of that new oak. Discreet vanilla notes set off ripe, yet cool aromas of confit lemon, floral notes and stone fruit. The rich concentration of fruit is elegantly balanced with a core of lively lemon acidity. This is the flagship wine of the estate, and performs every year.

After many years, premiers crus were finally recognised in Pouilly-Fuissé from the 2020 vintage. Château de Fuissé are delighted and proud that their superb monopole vineyard that sits just next to the historic château has been recognised with this classification. It is a 2.7 hectare vineyard, home to many old vines, some of which were planted as far back as 1929. The youngest vines you’ll find here are actually from 1984. There is real intensity in this wine, with toasty, candied lemon peel notes and a subtle anise lift on the nose. The palate is powerful in its concentration and textural complexity, packed full of peach, nectarine and a smattering of fresh ginger. The finish is mineral, saline and persistent, this wine is built to last! It is no surprise it has been upgraded.

This comes from three parcels, two of which lie on the limestone soils near the distinctive Solutré rock bringing a tension to the wine, and the third on a richer clay site near Pouilly bringing density. It has been vinified in stainless steel only and has a wonderful freshness in 2021, with light citrus and white peach aromatics, and a long, fine, saline finish.

Claudie’s father, in his days of running a plant nursery with access to a huge range of plant material, planted seven different clones of Pinot Noir in this 2.5 hectare site. Now at 45 years old, this diversity, twinned with the quality of vineyard husbandry, means the vineyard is thriving. The different clones call for pruning and harvesting at different times, but it’s an effort worth making, as the wine is texturally sophisticated, juicy, and full of Pinot nuance. So balanced and extremely drinkable.

Sitting below Les Arvelets, this 0.4 hectare parcel was planted by Claudie’s great-grandfather. The plot has to be farmed by horse as the layer of soil is so thin here. This 2018 has a rich and opulent nose of flora and cerises. The depth and density of the fruit is backed up by fine and chalky tannins, that have just enough grip and bite. Delicious now, but with plenty of potential to improve with further time in bottle.

Les Epenotes was the first site to be awarded premier cru status in Beaune. This parcel of between 65 and 80 years old, was planted by Claudie’s grandfather. Claudie comments that this parcel is the first to be harvested, which they always do themselves before their team arrives! The 2021 is packed full of spicy, red and even black fruit aromas. This wine has fantastic energy, the purity and depth of the fruit leaving a lasting impression on the palate. Very fine.

This is found in the south-east of the appellation, near Mercurey. In 2021, it is pleasantly aromatic with plenty of honeysuckle and green orchard fruit notes coming through. The abundance of pure fruit on the palate is matched with a delicious, mineral freshness that makes you want to reach for another sip!

This south-east facing stony site, not far from the town of Chagny in the northeast of the appellation, is a brilliant example of what Claudie Jobard is up to. The wine is so bright and citrusy, with a fine saline thread of acidity running through the fruit. Great energy.

This old vine parcel that once belonged to her grandfather, sits above the premier cru site Les Rugiens, with the vines having an average age of between 70 and 90 years old. Lots of complexity here, with aromas of red cherry, blood orange, wild rose and very nice reduction. The palate has great purity and depth of fruit, fine-grained slightly chalky tannins and a long, fine saline finish. Delicious.

This comes from their youngest vineyard (average age of around 15 years) right next to Marcel’s house. He says this is best opened and enjoyed while it is young. This is a vibrant, fresh and energetic cuvee with plenty of juicy peach and citrus aromas and flavours on display. If you are looking for value for money you simply cannot beat this!

This comes from three neighbouring parcels near the cellar, from vines with an average age of 45 years. The additional clay in the soil here gives added depth to this cuvée, as well as more longevity. This is such an enjoyable wine: it has ripeness and personality in spades, with a razor-sharp line of acidity slicing through to a long finish.

Marcel believes this is his best vineyard. It is a blend of older and younger vines on limestone marl soils and makes a wine with silky ripeness and plenty of freshness. It could easily come from its grander and more expensive neighbour, Pouilly-Fuissé. In 2021 it has an intensely concentrated and juicy stone fruit core which gives the wine delicious grip and bite and a long, lingering finish.

This premier cru, in the south of the appellation, is a south-facing sun-trap. It was the first to be picked in 2021. Its character is not unlike a Volnay - red-fruited, with a pure fruit core, lacy freshness, and just enough structure to mean it will age brilliantly, but can be enjoyed fairly young too.

This is made from a combination of three parcels in the south of the Mercurey appellation from one single lieu-dit. The vines are now over 75 years old, and the wine they make is one of the most juicy and delicious reds you can find at this price level. It has a well-balanced body, and a long, fine finish, with aromatic, fruity cherry on the nose, and soft, supple tannins.

Clos du Roy is one of the finest sites in Mercurey and this comes from a parcel of 55 year old vines. The 2021 shows lovely ripe plummy aromas on the nose with a touch of rose. The palate has so much fruit concentration, density and depth supported by some silky and supple tannins. At the same time, this is fresh and very well-balanced with a long, fine, saline finish.

This 2-hectare plot lies in the north of the region, and typically produces a wine with gentler acidity than the domaine’s others. Nevertheless, it is always one of the most balanced, and one of the freshest feeling. This freshness is derived from the minerality of fruit, grown on the marl soils of Uchizy. It’s a perfectly balanced Macon.

Dominique owns 2 hectares in Saint-Véran. It’s one of his more recent purchases, with two parcels picked up in 2014 and 2016. Powerful yet impeccably balanced, this shouldn’t be missed in 2021.

Not made in 2019 due to frost. The vines lie near Saint-Véran, and they tend to ripen early. This is charming and easy, with lots of creamy fruit on the finish.

This is the pinnacle of the Lafon wines in the Mâconnais, or as Dominique would put it, the ‘Porusots’ of the Mâcon domaine. That is to say: crystalline and pure, with a power, presence and precision you might expect from a much grander appellation in the Côte d'Or. In the brilliant 2021 vintage, it’s not to be missed.

Chardonnay here refers to the village, rather than the variety. Clos de la Crochette is a charming walled vineyard that Dominique bought in 2003. After a little investigation he discovered it is one of the most historic sites in all of Burgundy, first planted by the monks of Cluny (c.900 AD). It’s elegant, fine, and delicious.

Many parcels are blended into this brilliant wine, all from the Viré side of the appellation. The old vines thrive in the village’s clay-rich topsoil over limestone subsoil. The wines from this side of the appellation tend to be straighter and tighter than the more generous and rounded Clessé side. This is a brilliant 2021, but will need a little time to come together.

Clos des Four is a particularly stony site, and it produces naturally low yields, which results in a wine with intense concentration and fleshy depth. Lots of creamy fruit here, with plenty of freshness, too. This is deliciously balanced, and there’s a real sense of drive and dynamism.

This is the village where you’ll find the cellar, and it makes what we think of as the most classic example from the domaine. From higher-altitude parcels, this is juicy and fine, and there’s a lot of purity.

This usually comes from a single site - Le Monsard - near the cellar. However, becuase of the tiny crop in 2021, this was blended with other parcels, meaning that it is not a single site wine. It still stikes the balance between incisive freshness and precise ripeness.